1995 1/20 Scale Tamiya TYRRELL Yamaha 023 (M. Salo)

[project510]

This is looking amazing. I cant stop looking at the engine color. I'm sold on those paints and will be trying them out. Im not sure if you mentioned your process, but for the Metal color is there any special steps? gloss black base? or is that jsut over regular primer?

[adrian29341]

Jul 22, 2024 15:09:14 GMT -5 project510 said:

This is looking amazing. I cant stop looking at the engine color. I'm sold on those paints and will be trying them out. Im not sure if you mentioned your process, but for the Metal color is there any special steps? gloss black base? or is that jsut over regular primer?

Thank you sir for those kind words

Definitely play around and have some fun with the metals - there is about 30 different colors all different types
of metallic finishes and I've only got 5 or 6 of them. I went with a 'Burnt Metal' and different Aluminums on top
of regular primer - black base is recommended but honestly with the coverage these supply I don't think it's a must.

One of my tricks is after applying different combinations of the metals and they are dry I hit the entire area with Tamiya
black panel liner - basically using it as you would a wash - sounds scary but honestly after it pools off it creates nice sludge like
areas and gives a nice shine to the metals

I'll definitely be playing with the other colors in the line going forward - love the realistic look they give to plastic - incredible.

[adrian29341]

Hey Guys!

Had a solid session last night trying to finalize the rear assembly by inserting the exit pipes and all the
details around them. I have had so much fun honestly working on this engine and gearbox section that last
night it suddenly hit me again like a ton of bricks that once I fix the body in place this will never be seen again

Ah well, I just keep telling myself that I will know it's there

Couldn't resist placing the body in front for a shot and realized that I gotta get going on the clear coat!

I did get all the photo-etch filters in place on the body - 4 in total.

I hope if you are kind enough to be following that I'm making it worth your while

Thanks for stopping by!

[kyledehart5]

That looks awesome Adrian. The PE and the little bits of weathering and exhaust coloration are spot on.

[joelw]

Adrian,

The small engine details are just amazing, as are those PE screen for the radiator intakes & exhausts. Are they actual PE parts, or something completely different that you found that has a completely different intended use?

joel

[2whl]

You're knocking this one out of the park, Adrian. I'm loving the details

[adrian29341]

Jul 23, 2024 15:04:00 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian,

The small engine details are just amazing, as are those PE screen for the radiator intakes & exhausts. Are they actual PE parts, or something completely different that you found that has a completely different intended use?

joel

Thanks Joel!

The screens are from the Detail up set that I got which is specifically for the 023 - I found one at Spot Model

In the past I have had to modify screens etc to fit but I thought I would splurge and grab the 023 specific set. 

[406 Silverado]

Joel's right about the tires Adrian. You frickin' nailed 'em!! What's the process you use for those Adrian?

[adrian29341]

Thanks Mate!

Doing Tamiya tires is actually one of my favorite things to do because they are real rubber and therefore allow
for so much realism. Honestly it is going to sound a bit weird but your fingers are the best tools to do tires. I have a master rim that I mount them on to sand them down with them spinning on a chuck in my drill and then I use my sander on my Dremel or a block sander to get the worm effect on the surfaces. 

The entire time I am working with them I am simply rubbing the surfaces of the sidewalls with my fingers - it gets rid of the shine and brings about a used rubber look. I have stencils for the goodyear logos and the tire number barcodes, and I have a 'Tire Goodies' decal sheet by Powerslide that provides a bunch of add-ons to apply to the sidewalls, and on these I did my own hand drawn markings on the side walls - easily one of the most difficult things I have ever done as a modeler given how small the lettering has to be, and I use a brush.

I hit the shiney decals with some tire black or a sut mixture I made by combing several paints and that will give the wear look to any shiney sidewall decals.

I have always felt like the realism of tires really make or break an automotive build of any genre, so I always try really hard to create realism in my tires as best I can

[joelw]

Adrian,
Once again I learned a new thing from you; tire detailing using decals from Powerslide. Going to get a sheet or two as my tires really need a little more to them. Kinda like yours.

joel

[mrt51]

Outstanding build!

[adrian29341]

Jul 24, 2024 10:03:34 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian,
Once again I learned a new thing from you; tire detailing using decals from Powerslide. Going to get a sheet or two as my tires really need a little more to them. Kinda like yours.

joel

Here is a link Joel!


www.mikesdecals.com/2005-2019-goodyear-tire-wheel-goodies-powerslide-320-p-4942.html

[project510]

Jul 24, 2024 8:28:59 GMT -5 adrian29341 said:

Thanks Mate!

Doing Tamiya tires is actually one of my favorite things to do because they are real rubber and therefore allow
for so much realism. Honestly it is going to sound a bit weird but your fingers are the best tools to do tires. I have a master rim that I mount them on to sand them down with them spinning on a chuck in my drill and then I use my sander on my Dremel or a block sander to get the worm effect on the surfaces. 

The entire time I am working with them I am simply rubbing the surfaces of the sidewalls with my fingers - it gets rid of the shine and brings about a used rubber look. I have stencils for the goodyear logos and the tire number barcodes, and I have a 'Tire Goodies' decal sheet by Powerslide that provides a bunch of add-ons to apply to the sidewalls, and on these I did my own hand drawn markings on the side walls - easily one of the most difficult things I have ever done as a modeler given how small the lettering has to be, and I use a brush.

I hit the shiney decals with some tire black or a sut mixture I made by combing several paints and that will give the wear look to any shiney sidewall decals.

I have always felt like the realism of tires really make or break an automotive build of any genre, so I always try really hard to create realism in my tires as best I can

I do this also but I just stick the tire on a dowel or a socket from the tool box haha. Use the drill also, and it gives it a nice race used look!

[adrian29341]

Yup the best way to achieve the look for sure!

[joelw]

Jul 24, 2024 10:17:18 GMT -5 adrian29341 said:

Jul 24, 2024 10:03:34 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian,
Once again I learned a new thing from you; tire detailing using decals from Powerslide. Going to get a sheet or two as my tires really need a little more to them. Kinda like yours.

joel

Here is a link Joel!


www.mikesdecals.com/2005-2019-goodyear-tire-wheel-goodies-powerslide-320-p-4942.html

Adrian,

  Thanks for the link. Heading on over and ordering that sheet.

joel

[project510]

I keep coming back to this build to stare at the body. It looks so good.

[adrian29341]

Wow, I got hit with Bronchitis and was out of commission for a week, so I'm just getting back into the saddle today guys.

I literally had no energy to model at all which tells you how sick I've been

To recap the build to date, here are the details:

- The front wing I knew was going to very tricky given the combination of flat black and gloss white surfaces. I didn't
realize just how difficult this bugger would be. I got the black laid down and then the Tamiya Pure white - taping nightmare.
After removing the tape I have a lot of tough up work ahead of me to get this thing clean , precise and accurate - that's
this weeks task - it will eb a combination of mor taping and air brush touch up - no other way.

- The rear wing needs some attention with photo-etch rivets to go in place and some flat black touch up with light weathering 
of metal edges to the upright spoilers on either side. Then the rear light has to be created which I am still undecided on how
to tackle to achieve the best realism possible.

- The suspension parts are flat blacked and sealed so they will be worked on this weekend to create the most realistic hinge
connections as they enter the bodywork - I have a combination of photo-etch parts to achieve this I hope - I will post pics of the
assembly process.  

- The center lock nuts (shown below) are ready for paint and weathering - after created with 2 separate photo-etch and
metal nut heads.

 ** The Body! When it comes to F1 cars if I cannot create what I feel is a successful clear coat on the body then I feel I have
failed the build - i honestly do - i can't help it - so it is always the most anxious process for me until I see the end result.
This time I decided to try a new method which comes from word of mouth after talking to a whole bunch of guys at my LHS.
Yesterday I finished the second round of clear coating on the body - I went for it! here below was my process:

2 Sessions - 1st Session  - hitting it with a light coat, setting it aside for about 3 mins, then hitting it again, repeating
                                          about 7 to 8 times - took about an hour.
                    2nd Session - Started by wet sanding the entire body after the 1st Session getting it nice and smooth - repeating
                                          the same procedure in Session 1 but on my last pass I made sure everywhere was a thick solid gloss
                                          with no 'orange peal texture' at all - quickly into the sealed tub and then I let it sit outside in the 30+
                                          heat we had here during the day - just lucky conditions for this for sure - though it's not necessary
                                          the heat always helps.

The mixture I used for the clear is a 60/40 mix of Mr. Hobby 100 GX SC with Tamiya Retarder through my Paasche TG-3AS workhorse.

I looked and photographed this morning and honestly I never truly know what I've got until the next day.
I must say that this may be the best clear coat finish I have ever achieved - I was by no means confident at all as to what the end result
would be, but I am very pleased with this method and process - I will use it going forward for sure. I am going to pick up a food dehydrator
today to seal the clear coat based on advice I received right here in the group

I will flat coat the area where the exhaust grime is on the rear vents to make it appear to have occurred during a race.



This was the result I was soooo hoping for so I would love to know what you guys think of the clear coat and thanks for stopping in!

[adrian29341]

Thank you so much my friend - I just posted an update

[project510]

[2whl]

WOW What a glassy smooth clear coat Adrian. It's spectacular.

[adrian29341]

Thank you sir!

[kyledehart5]

Absolutely gorgeous clear my friend. Deep and smooth. Beautiful result.

[joelw]

Adrian.
Honestly I can't remember ever seeing a poor gloss finish on any of your builds. And the gloss finish on the Tyrrell 023 looks perfect. When you polish out the gloss finish what is your full sequence to achieve those outstanding results?

joel

[adrian29341]

Thank you sir!

[adrian29341]

Aug 1, 2024 18:21:52 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian.
Honestly I can't remember ever seeing a poor gloss finish on any of your builds. And the gloss finish on the Tyrrell 023 looks perfect. When you polish out the gloss finish what is your full sequence to achieve those outstanding results?

joel

You are too kind Joel thank you sir I was not sure about this new method I confess, but the logic of multiple thin coats 
with a rest in between to allow a certain amount of drying and leveling makes sense, so I knew I had to be patient and trust the process
in order to achieve the result - and patience is not my strong suit lol

To answer your question I don't polish at all - I have found that polishing clothes and agents have always created fine polish lines that are
visible so I think with the Retarder being 60% of my mix when I make sure that the final hit has full and even coverage then during the
drying process the retarder allows it to spread itself out evenly and so I don't buff or polish at all - I will bake this one in a food dehydrator
to really create a rock hard finish before I start assembly.

[adrian29341]

The front wing will be my focus over the next few days - it will take that long given what must be done.

The process will be as follows:

- Tape off in order to complete white coverage with airbrush - fine work so my Sotar.
- Hit with a coat of flat clear.
- Tape off white section to finish off flat black areas again fine work so the Sotar.
- Hit entire wing with a coat of flat clear.
- Apply the front wing decals
- Hit with a misting of flat clear
- Apply gloss to the entire wing
- Bake the clear coat on hard.
- Finish off by taping the white areas again and flat coat the black areas.

What an amount of work for a front wing!! lol

[project510]

I had to read your clear technique twice. 7-8 mist coats 3 minutes apart.. That goes against everything I have ever learned about painting haha. Your results speak for themselves, as it looks FANTASTIC. And there is probably plenty of room for wet sanding and polishing without fear of burning through it. Wonderful.

[joelw]

Adrian,
Are you using a retarder instead of thinner, or adding it to the thinner?

joel

[adrian29341]

Aug 2, 2024 15:11:34 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian,
Are you using a retarder instead of thinner, or adding it to the thinner?

joel

I'll take a photo for you tonight Joel, I believe its just Tamiya's Laquer Thinner but from USA to Canada sometimes labels change so I will take a photo for you

I eyeball my mixture but I would say its pretty close to 60/40 Thinner to clear maybe 55/45.

[adrian29341]

Here you go Joel!