redleg12
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Member since: August 2012
www.redleg2scale.com
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Aug 28, 2012 18:59:10 GMT -5
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Post by redleg12 on Jan 4, 2013 19:43:54 GMT -5
Very nice work on the damage....I like it!!
Rounds Complete!!
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
Posts: 0
Nov 26, 2024 12:34:45 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2013 20:15:10 GMT -5
Thanks Mike . After some primer i'll give it another look .
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reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
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Post by reserve on Jan 5, 2013 1:39:21 GMT -5
Good shot gouges, nice job of keeping them in scale. Like your grimy interior also, too bad it'll be covered
Regards, Mark
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Nov 26, 2024 12:34:45 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 2:15:17 GMT -5
Mark , glad you see it as being in scale . It was scary to stick a $30 model with cheap $5 soldering iron ! The interior was just for practice i guess . ;D
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Post by wouter on Jan 5, 2013 2:26:26 GMT -5
Nice work mate, I love that damage. Cool one!
I've seen the damage on the La Gleize one in the flesh and least to say it's impressive, especially because of none was able to penetrate it
Cheers
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 5, 2013 10:56:59 GMT -5
Damage looks good to me, not too overdone and seems a solid match with those reference photos.
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Post by bullardino on Jan 5, 2013 15:43:21 GMT -5
Hey guys . ;D Here's the results of my first time attempt at creating projectile damage . I got the method from DanB (Dan b) . He was gratiouse enought o answer my question about how he did this on his Panther in street furniture . What what do you think ? Putty can fix almost anything . Don't change it a single bit, It's fantastic
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afvfan
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Member since: December 2012
Bob
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Dec 10, 2012 17:32:38 GMT -5
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Post by afvfan on Jan 5, 2013 17:27:30 GMT -5
Afv , i seen pics of that Jagd but not of that damage . Thanks . Do you think mine is close enough ?One thing i noticed is the lack of "splintering" damage from the shrapnel .Maybe i over did that ? I also noticed the lack of splinter damage on both vehicles. After thinking some about it, it makes sense given the physics involved. That said, I don't think I'd worry about changing what you have already. What did bother me is that the damage of the larger hits. I couldn't put a finger on it at first, then it hit me. The deeper section of damage should be at the point of the hit and get shallower as it goes up....pretty much the opposite of what you depict. I don't know if I'd worry about changing it on this, though. Just some info to file away for the next time you do this. Here's another pic of the Aberdeen JT's damage:
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ogrejohn
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Jun 1, 2012 17:33:59 GMT -5
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Post by ogrejohn on Jan 5, 2013 17:44:45 GMT -5
I like it! Looks great Carl!
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Nov 26, 2024 12:34:45 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 18:46:15 GMT -5
Thanks guys for stopping in . Wouts, cool you seen the KT at La Gleize in person . Amazed me how the metal is melted and rolled back . Bill good to hear that ! Lui , ok , i'll leave it ! ohn , thanks for looking in 1 Afv , hmmm . I'm thinking that due to the angle of the glacis a round that comes in at just about level trajectory or slightly above that will push more molten metal to the top and sides . A lot probably depends on the trajectory . And then theres the lighting when the photo was taken . This is the same KT . The hit just below the MG 34 mount looks more like the damage i wanted to replicate......imo.
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reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
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Post by reserve on Jan 6, 2013 0:27:34 GMT -5
There was a time I would panic at the thought of putting holes or whatnot in an expensive kit that I had significant time in, I know how you feel. Happily there's always putty as you've mentioned, not that you should use it in this case I still like the gouges even after looking at them about thirty times.
All I can say is that putty has pulled my butt from the fire more than once and when the paint gets on no one's the wiser.
Regards, Mark
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Post by Leon on Jan 6, 2013 0:43:10 GMT -5
Just tuned in looking good Carl
Leon
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 1:37:25 GMT -5
Mark ,30 times ? ;D I've looked at it many a time also . I'm going to look at it again after i get the super structure on and that will give it a better perspective i think . Leon , thanks for watching .
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Deleted
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Nov 26, 2024 12:34:45 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 1:48:44 GMT -5
I'm going to use Friul tracks on this model . The set comes with replacement drive sprockets ,the 18 tooth type that were on the Porsche Jagd. I reworked the the mounting on the model so could get a firmer attachment and be able to rotate the sprocket when done . Not to play with them but to be able to aline the tracks one side to the other . Before i got to that fix i found that the side plate on the starboard front was warped . To straighten i wedge in this nail . Here's how i attached the sprockets , with a bolt and nut .
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Post by bullardino on Jan 6, 2013 5:07:03 GMT -5
Great job Carl, I think it is really stronger than the original one.
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Post by wouter on Jan 6, 2013 5:28:23 GMT -5
I like the way you make stuff workeable and improve them mate. This sure is one to remember. Keep the wonderfull stuff coming mate!
Cheers
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sollie
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Jan 21, 2012 5:07:22 GMT -5
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Post by sollie on Jan 6, 2013 5:56:19 GMT -5
been following this one . Really coming along. Pic's look great to.These monsters were hughe. Are you going for a knocket out ore still operational tank?I'm building a Sturm as of now, and not sure wich way I'm going. I think the battle scars' will look great. I went with some splash/splintering to on my Jpanzer, but I see those hit's on the La Gleize tiger is more like warm knife in butter.
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Post by deafpanzer on Jan 6, 2013 10:43:49 GMT -5
Carl, thats one real good looking nail. I have to say this... nobody knows how to combine plastic and metal better than you.
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 11:56:01 GMT -5
Thanks for keeping this thread going guys ! Luigi , the only way to mount the Friul sprockets on the kit final drive housing was to c.a. the metal against a flat plastic surface . I wanted something more positive . Nothing worse that to have the sprocket fall off while getting the tracks wrapped around everything . Wouts , I got all of this hardware in a big plastic jar and its fun going thru it all and figuring out a use . Soly , thats some good looking damage ! Andy , you like that nail ? You didnt mention the screw ! I'm really proud of that screw man .....................LOL ;D
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danb.
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Nov 17, 2011 9:22:52 GMT -5
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Post by danb. on Jan 6, 2013 12:24:46 GMT -5
The battle damage looks awesome Carl nice job it takes a bit of practice but looks like ya got it 1st go buddy the project is progressing well keep it up buddy Dan B
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 6, 2013 13:01:05 GMT -5
That's a neat solution to get rotatable sprockets Carl.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 14:04:44 GMT -5
I was wondering about the sprocket bolts Carl - never seen this done before and was wondering why...I've never used Frillies and TBH I probably never will, but do the sprockets/idlers not have spindles or owt? I've never heard anyone mention an issue when mounting Fruil wheels - I suppose the other option would have been fitting an axle right through huh? So, is the outer rim just CA'ed over the sprocket hiding the cheesehead? Good questions Dicky , i havent seen it done b4 either . I'm wishing i would of taken more pics now . On the kits plastic final drive housing there is a small diameter axle sticking out of the center that the kits plastic sprocket snugly fits over with an appropriately sized hole in the center it . You know , its the male /female fitting thingy . So if the sprocket has the female fitting then i would say that the plastic sprocket is a nice tight fit but the female opening on the friul sprocket is a sloppy loose fit .We dont like that . Besides the friul sprocket could easily be c.a.'d off center using the kits small male appendig . Weird aint it ? hope it makes sense . ;D
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 14:07:13 GMT -5
Aye bill , thanks ;D
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 14:19:37 GMT -5
been following this one . Really coming along. Pic's look great to.These monsters were hughe. Are you going for a knocket out ore still operational tank?I'm building a Sturm as of now, and not sure wich way I'm going. I missed answering your question . Yes this one will be operational . I have some Dragon figures and 128 mm shells i want to use on this build .
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Nov 26, 2024 12:34:45 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 15:48:08 GMT -5
I ended up with this gap back here . Gonna require some strong rubber bands to pull it together . I spayed the drive sprockets with some enamel flat black ..but it doesnt stick well on the metal .I'll clean it off and use something else for primer .
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ogrejohn
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Go away or I shall taunt you a second time!
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Jun 1, 2012 17:33:59 GMT -5
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Post by ogrejohn on Jan 6, 2013 17:42:53 GMT -5
Looking good Carl! If you still have problems with the paint not sticking to the metal sprocket try soaking them in some vinegar. Sometime the molding stuff remains and causes the paint to not stick.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 18:13:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the help John !
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 18:58:06 GMT -5
I thought about it and what i needed was a rough surface on the metal Friul parts for the paint to adhere to better . I cleaned them with lacquer thinner and then dipped them in Novacan black petina . This stuff will not rub off even with a stiff short bristled brush . It worked real well on the track links also .
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Post by TRM on Jan 6, 2013 19:04:23 GMT -5
Nice work Carl!! Nice fix on the Fruils. I always have trouble with the white metal stuff! Keep up the great work!!
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redleg12
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Aug 28, 2012 18:59:10 GMT -5
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Post by redleg12 on Jan 6, 2013 20:07:33 GMT -5
Carl - Watching from my bunker.... looking good
Rounds Complete!!
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