craigcole20b
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
Posts: 397
Jun 8, 2012 22:26:16 GMT -5
Jun 8, 2012 22:26:16 GMT -5
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Post by craigcole20b on Feb 20, 2013 23:32:48 GMT -5
Ok this weekend I airbrushed earth tone effects on my Stryker a few light coats to get a base of dirt no issues with the spray part set it a side to dry and got side tracked with some things to night when I was getting a game plan for what I was going to do next the finish was on the tacky side is this because My flat coat was testers dull coat from can lacquer And the ak stuff being enamel Has reacted to the dull coat? It was straight from the bottle no thinner.
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Post by bbd468 on Feb 20, 2013 23:47:51 GMT -5
RUH ROW Craig!!! Man i dont know enough about enamels and lacquer based stuff to say what happend. Im sure someone will chime in soon and help ya out. I sure hope its not permanent damage...your Stryker Rocks Brotha!!
Good luck Craig, Gary
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craigcole20b
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
Posts: 397
Jun 8, 2012 22:26:16 GMT -5
Jun 8, 2012 22:26:16 GMT -5
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Post by craigcole20b on Feb 20, 2013 23:57:37 GMT -5
I don't I did Any crazy damage to it it was the wheels and lower hull and under side Nothing a round of pigment won't hide I know the ak stuff is on the hot side Just wanted yo know for the next time
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Post by bullardino on Feb 21, 2013 10:36:03 GMT -5
All I know is that Mig says to use an acrylic varnish below his washes. I think his products need an acrylic base to work at their best...
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nemesis
Full Member
Member since: January 2012
Posts: 295
Jan 19, 2012 11:10:39 GMT -5
Jan 19, 2012 11:10:39 GMT -5
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Post by nemesis on Feb 21, 2013 13:09:18 GMT -5
You should always apply an enamel wash over an acrylic gloss base. The gloss base is smoother than a matt one so the wash will run along the desired lines using capillary action. A lacquer based varnish will react with an enamel based wash, which i think is what has happened here. Hopefully you can resurrect the build without too much of a headache.
Regards from the Swamp
Eth
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 21, 2013 17:03:46 GMT -5
Eth is right. Lacquer-based sealants like the Testors Dullcote don't play nice with enamel or oil-based washes. If you're going to use lacquer-based sealants, you have to do it as the last step after the enamel/oil washes have been applied and used. I always do that on my builds prior to doing pigment applications. The rule is always alternate your mediums...if you paint in enamels, seal with acrylics, and vice versa but never apply a same medium-layer over another or you'll get some interesting results depending.
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Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Feb 22, 2013 13:40:20 GMT -5
When it comes to varnishes nothing (imo) beats the Vallejo range of varnishes. It's all waterbased so no chance of problems when using it on top of Enamel washes etc. These rattlecan Varnishes are so 'hot'! I learnt the hard way when I started out but thank God I was put right - I've no doubt the AK washes reacted badly to the dullcoat spray. Get some Vallejo gloss, satin and matt varnishes and you'll be sorted - add a touch of water to stop it spraying on too milky as it's white in colour (if it does go on milky coloured it's ok as that clears as it dries). Vallejo varnishes go hand-in-hand with AK products. Give them a go. I was recommended to try this about 12 months ago and haven't looked back since! Hope this helps, Ben
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