Dragon JP c/w Zim-Final Photos (28.07.13):

[Leon]

Looking good Ben.I really like the look of the PE grills.

[ceresvesta.]

FOLLOWING!

[elco]

Just bought Dragon"s late version, can't wait to have it at home in the maintime i follow yours. Looking good so far

[Deleted]

nice start, that zim looks ace

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

With it being the second of two Bank Holidays this month in England I had a good look at the intructions and decided that I'd get myself to a point where I could start afresh on the Casemate roof and gun assembly.

Basically, that meant installing the tool 'frame holders' (for want of a better word). The Jack Block Holder is fitted as are the spare track hangers and the two lengths that run along the sides of the upper hull. I'm not sure what the two long lengths are for but imagine they are related to Schurzen?

Next step is the gun assembly and Casemate roof. The roof looks like an involved but simple bit of assembly work. I'm not sure if I'll get involved with the whole gun assembly thing or just keep it to a minimum, i.e. just enough to provide a good seat for the RB barrel to slot into. It's a bit too wide so will need some filing work to allow it to fit.

I understand the track hangers are a bit 'iffy' and fitting the spare links can be a PITA?

Finally, you'll notice that I've left the front parts of the Fenders missing - I'll drop them into place when I join the upper and lower hull halves as fitting them now could be a potential mistake plus there is very little for them to glue onto even though the guide says fit now!

Tool rack on left side:



Track Hangers:



Right Side - two x tool racks and Jack Block holder:



Rear engine deck is complete - the upper and lower hull halves are dry-fitted for now. The part with the hatch at the back of the casemate is a separate piece and refused to assemble withoutleaving a tiny gap on the left side so I'll mask either side of the gap and smooth some filler in the there:



Here is where I've left off the two Fender parts just incase they cause problems - I'm going to beat one of them up a bit. I need to clean up the tow cable shackles yet:



She's coming on well so far!

Ben

[Leon]

Looks like you have everything well in hand.Keep it coming.

[Hinksy]

Hi chaps,

I've had a darn busy day today and have only been home for an hour so after a bite to eat I got caught up with a couple of little bits that I had to do which means when I start my session on Thursday I'll be starting from a totally new part of the build.

I've just trimmed off and cleaned up the road wheels. I've also assembled the rear escape/loaders hatch. I'm going to be posing it closed for the time being but won't glue it shut so I'll paint the inside of the door and as it's not closed I'll be able to weather around the frame and door edge properly.

Question: This build gives the option of 1) adding a third stowage bin on the rear top left corner of the casemate. The two I have to choose from are different sizes - the third option is obviously to leave it off completely. Also, if you look at the marked area on the build guide there's options to assemble two different types of what I think is the ventilation thingy

I've shown pictures of both these parts in my photos below - does anyone know if I need to do make up the vent cover with the fiddly looking wingnuts or can I use the simple option without the wing nuts? Same goes for the third stowage box. Remember I'm building an early JP with the non-composite KT 88mm barrel.

I'm at work tomorrow then I'm off again for the rest of the week so I hope to get the barrel in place & the build basecoated or at least primered.

Rear Hatch in place - open/closed:





The vent thing with wing nuts and stowage box (parts M20 or M17 - does anyone know what's needed on an early JP:



Look at the box with the Asterix and the 'E' - will parts N12 & N11 be okay or is the item N13 needed with the wing nuts and handle on it?





The Casemate roof fits like a glove so I've done something right :



Thanks for looking guys,

I'm having so much fun with this build! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR JP FANS!

Ben

[wbill76]

Looks like a productive series of efforts Ben, keep up the good work on the JP.

[Hinksy]

May 28, 2013 15:05:19 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

Looks like a productive series of efforts Ben, keep up the good work on the JP.

Cheers Bill,

Did you read the blurb in bold?

I thought you of all people might know the answers re the vent assmbly and the use of a third stowage box?

Ben

[deafpanzer]

Regarding your question about the vent... it looks like its EITHER parts N11 & 12... OR part N 13 by itself. If you look at Dragon codes, double sided arrows means you have the option... that's my best assumption.

I like the idea of adding third stowage box... the more the merrier to haul back home prizes such as French wine or Russian vodka!

[bbd468]

JP's lookin real good Ben, sure makin me want to build mine! But i must resist for now....not easy though!

[wbill76]

Sorry Ben, missed your questions as I was scanning posts!

The 3rd bin is a feature added in Feb '45, so it's out given the barrel type you're fitting. The two-part barrel was added starting in May '44. The 'optional' part N13 on the ventilator cover is the water-tight cover for the compartment's extractor fan...so whether you fit it or not depends on the situation you find the vehicle in. If it were in transport mode or similar, it would be fitted. If it were in combat and the vent/fan were crucial, the cover would be stowed. HTH!

[Leon]

Keep the JP rolling Ben.Really looking good.

[Hinksy]

May 29, 2013 20:05:48 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

Sorry Ben, missed your questions as I was scanning posts!

The 3rd bin is a feature added in Feb '45, so it's out given the barrel type you're fitting. The two-part barrel was added starting in May '44. The 'optional' part N13 on the ventilator cover is the water-tight cover for the compartment's extractor fan...so whether you fit it or not depends on the situation you find the vehicle in. If it were in transport mode or similar, it would be fitted. If it were in combat and the vent/fan were crucial, the cover would be stowed. HTH!

Thanks for that VERY helpful info Bill and cheers for the good feedback, Leon and Andy

I've looked at the wingnuts for that cover and I could have sworn I heard the Carpet Monster licking his lips! I'll go with the 'in action' option.

As for the third bin I've got no problem leaving that off.

All that's left now is the Casemate roof and hatches for it, the gun assembly, filling the gaps in around the back edges and tidying and prepping the wheels (yawn)i.e. cutting and removing seam lines and adding a few chips to the rubber etc.

I'm going to start on the gun assembly now i.e it needs a bit of filing to make it small enough to push into the Mantlet. I'm going to do that now, tomorrow the Casemate roof and the wheels and then start painting her up over the weekend.

Andy or (anyone else in the know) - I know you used the AK Modulation kit for German Grey (I've got the Dunky one) but have you got any tips on how to make it work best?

Many thanks,

Ben

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

I've had a busy old day today so just a small update.

I had hoped to get the wheels cleaned up and mounted on sticks ready for painting but had a bit of an issue with that RB barrel upgrade that I intended to do first thing today.

I sized it up against the early version kit barrel and filed down the area on the RB barrel that needs to push into the mantlet and then chop a few mm's off the breech end so it would fit BUT due to a stupid lack of judgement and heavy handed-ness on my part I had to go to plan C. Plan B would have involved using the kit early version plastic barrel but the mantlet was left unusable from using CA to hold the RB barrel.

It's a boring story so I won't go into it but I was saved by two unused parts on the 'T' sprue. These parts had been written off by the CA so the only way to proceed was to make up the composite plastic kit barrel and really clean it up good. Luckily it worked really well and actually looks very good - I'm going to take it easy on using the AM barrels as the Dragon barrels are pretty darn good!

I was getting stressed but am glad to report it didn't get stamped on or thrown against a wall (or both)







Imo, it looks fine. A bit more cleanup is needed I can now see and the Mantlet needs some Mr Surfacer brushing on it but it was looking bad at one stage. If them unused items hadn't been in there I'd have been ordering new sprues at least!

So, worries over. Tomorrow, Casemate roof and wheels - weekend is priming and painting!

Thanks fellas,

Ben

[ironhand6]

Hinsky, im following along with E-N-V-Y! I really want to pick up one of these. We have a couple of shows up this way soon, maybe ill luck out and find a good deal on one.

[Leon]

Great update Ben.Your making really good progress on this.Will be on the look out for paint.

[Hinksy]

Cheers lads!

Sorry I couldn't give you a nice shiny metal barrel to look at but these things happen (if you only looked at the pictures read the blurb too and you'll understand what I mean)

So, tomorrow:

Wheel prep and mounting on sticks stuck into Oasis flower arranging foam ready for priming.
Assembly of the casemate roof.
Installation of intake fans at rear and drop the upper hull on top and glue it all together.
Fill them horrible gaps at the back either side of the rear sloping Casemate wall where it joins the rest of the upper hull.

Saturday:
Wash and prime and make a start on the tools

Sunday: PAINT!

This is the plan as it stands - next weekend is totally free so I might find that I decide to leave the painting until next weekend as the pressure is off me and I'll have more time on my hands. After the Pz.IV mess up I want this done 100% properly!

You guys have to get this kit! It's like a Tamiya kit - it's such a nice simple assembly!

Ben

[Tojo72]

Glad you are enjoying this kit,assembly looks good.you got the right idea,no added pressure,whenever I feel pressured,get klutzy by knocking over or dropping stuff,I take it as a sign to stop and try again another time before something really bad happens.So don't rush your painting.

[Deleted]

great stuff! sometimes you have to be careful with am barrels as they can be designed for a specific kit. glad you sorted it out

[Hinksy]

Cheers guys,

Yep, that barrel was nearly nearly the end of this build! Thank God for the unused parts on the sprues! The kit barrel built up great so I'm going to take it easy with the AM barrels unless I'm 100% sure and just stick to upgrading the tracks.

Anyway, a quick Saturday update: The build is nearly done now. Today I've fitted the air intake fans that cannot be seen whatsoever and have fitted the upper hull - it's a perfect fit apart from a small gap at the back under the grills which I'll sort out with a bit of plasticard. I've googled JP Blogs and it seems this gap at the rear can be a problem with this kit.

The Casemate roof is on and apart from the wheels she is done! Tomorrow I'm going to do the wheels and next weekend prime and basecoat. I'll probably paint the tools tomorrow too.

As I've had to use the later style Composite barrel I've fitted the third stowage bin and I'm thinking about a simple DY basecoat with spots of light freehanded cammo - nothing heavy. Decals will be the red '112' numbers making this JP a Western Front vehicle from '44 (s.H.Pz.Jg.Abt.654).

I've got to look at the arms that hold the spare links at the rear as they are too wide.

Sorry about these awful photos - bad light and camera phone:





The gap at the back - hmmmm?







I thinned this Fender down and added a bit of damage simply by adding finger pressure:



I'm going to go with the DS banged-up box with the different Zim but paint it up rough so it looks like it's been 'borrowed'!



So, looking good so far. This should weather up nicely.

Update tomorrow,

Ben

[wbill76]

Nice save on the barrel Ben!

Which gap are you referring to, the one you puttied already or the one that's there at the areas between the mesh screens and the rear plate? If you referring to the first one, you've done the right thing in terms of filling. If you referring to the latter, those are supposed to be there.

[Hinksy]

Hi Bill,

The latter (the gap behind the grills). It seemed a bit big but if it's supposed to be like that then I'm happy.

I've just posted a thread in the general section about washing my model pre-painting - I don't want the same problems as last time!

Here (copied):

Hi guys,

Due to the problems and ultimate disaster with my last build I wouldn't like to see my current build go that way (Dragon JP with moulded on Zim).

I have never washed my builds before painting - perhaps I've been lucky so far but on the last build the primer was very easily chipping away from the plastic base. The slightest bit of rough handling and I'd have to do a tiny spot of touching up

So, how do I best wash a model? I assume my last build had grease or something on it and the primer reacted badly.

Do I need to immerse it in a bowl of warm soapy water and let it air dry or get a cloth and wipe it down. Perhaps a kitchen towel and cleaning chemical? I imagine it involves luke warm soapy water and a good washing - I'm just not sure of the best method and want to get it right.

This build is coming on great and I don't want to make the same mistake twice!

Cheers fellas,

Ben


Thanks buddy - I hope one of you can help!

Ben

[danb.]

Great work Ben these DML jad cats are awesome i enjoyed mine at least your roof fitted better then mine keep up the good work buddy dont know if this might help you the rear deck meshes need a few dents in my eyes use a pencil with an eraser on the end and roll it over the meshes gently it gives great results

Dan B

[bbd468]

Hello Ben, JP build is excellent, Very clean and looks like minimal fit issues. Looking forward to the next installment.

[afvfan]

Hey Ben, you expressed doubts about the 3rd stowage box, but always keep in mind that the Germans continually upgraded their older equipment as much as possible. It's really not hard to find early model vehicles with late model parts and extras on them. There were quite a few Mk IIIs and IVs that were "improved" so much during overhauls that the only way to tell what they started out as was to run down the chassis number.

[Deleted]

Good looking build .

[Hinksy]

Double post - something weird is happening here!

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

Cheers for the generous comments Carl and bbd

Okay, assembly is complete! The wheels have been sorted out, cleaned up and the outer wheels have been chipped here and there on the rubber areas to show some rough wear. In the photo of the wheels I've used a block of Oasis flower arranging foam which is like a very hard Polystyrene - I stick extra long matchsticks into the wheel holes and mount them in the Oasis. This way they are ready for priming and painting and are held rock-solid during the process!

The wheels are sitting beautifully. The Idlers are a tight fit anyway so I'll be able to adjust them. I'll leave the Drives until the Friuls are properly on as it makes fitting them so much easier if I can pop the Drive wheels on and off.

Tools are looking good - they are primed and ready for painting whilst on the sprue.

Finally, the Friuls: The one's in the photo are the ones pinched from my old Tamiya JP which this is replacing. The friuls look fine - I've done a test fit and they need a link removing but any problems I've got another box of Panther Friuls that I bought for my Panther G in the stash. The ones from my old JP that I plan to use on this one are painted and not Blackened which is fine. They need a good clean up but I'm thinking about stripping the paint and doing them again?

Whats the best way of stripping these Friuls down to the bare metal? I have seen oven cleaner being used for stripping paint but have never used it myself as I've never stripped paint like this

A few snaps (sorry about the quality - mobile phone again):

Test fit prior to cleanup of wheels:



My old Friuls from the Tamiya JP - they'll be fine after being shortened:







All the tools - I'll be painting them on the sprue (they've been primed already):



Wheeeels:



Thanks for looking guys,

I hope you like her so far. I'm at a nice point now - everything is all done so I can start painting next weekend!

Have a good week guys,

Ben

[wbill76]

Just out of curiosity Ben, why do you want to strip the Fruils and redo them? They look like they've got a very nice foundational finish already to work from in terms of future weathering or other steps?