Prepping for paint - WASHING MY MODELS PRE PRIMING?

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

Due to the problems and ultimate disaster with my last build I wouldn't like to see my current build go that way (Dragon JP with moulded on Zim).

I have never washed my builds before painting - perhaps I've been lucky so far but on the last build the primer was very easily chipping away from the plastic base. The slightest bit of rough handling and I'd have to do a tiny spot of touching up

So, how do I best wash a model? I assume my last build had grease or something on it and the primer reacted badly.

Do I need to immerse it in a bowl of warm soapy water and let it air dry or get a cloth and wipe it down. Perhaps a kitchen towel and cleaning chemical? I imagine it involves luke warm soapy water and a good washing - I'm just not sure of the best method and want to get it right.

This build is coming on great and I don't want to make the same mistake twice!

Cheers fellas,

Ben

[bigjohn]

Ben,

I fill the kitchen sink with abougjt 3 inches of warm soapy water. I use dawn dish soap. I then use a large soft brush to scrub the model trying to make sure I cover every square in h, I then rinse really well under the faucet. Put something over the drain Incase small parts come loose.

Hope this helps

[afvfan]

Hi Ben, I use alcohol myself. I use q-tips and a small stiff brush (for tight areas) to apply it. After it air dries, I go over the model and pick off any stray cotton fibers that might have gotten hung up on things.

There are commercial model cleaners sold under a variety of brands. I've never used any of them, but I wouldn't doubt that they are nothing more than some kind of alcohol based solution.

[TRM]

Hey Ben...I washed maybe 3 ever and had no problem that I could tell. But it's not a bad practice to get into...personally I would go warm soapy water and just let air dry. Alcohol would work too if you liked. I would try to stay away from any harsh chemicals...well, they are just that, chemicals! No need to use em if you don't have too..right?

I have seen a couple use a sonic cleaner on a completed, unpainted model...same thing...soapy water and let air dry. Seems to work the charm. Not too expensive but it is just one more cost for something. Thinking they go between $25 an $40USD...Harbor Freight has em for around the 25 mark. They also work a dream on airbrushes....a little window cleaner, fire it up and voila...new!!

[Hinksy]

Great stuff guys - thanks!

Soapy water it is and a gentle scrub!

Ben

[Tojo72]

You can also dry with a hand held hair dryer,just be careful not to melt or warp anything

[imatanker]

Hinsky,I use Windex and an old fairly large paint brush.Rinse with warm water,wipe down with paper towels and let air dry. Jeff T.

[Hinksy]

Great stuff guys!

Excellent advice!

A good friend of mine who is a published modeller (magazine articles) and a great guy insists on using Zippo style lighter fluid wiped over every surface. He applies it via a cloth iirc? He swears by it!

I've never heard of this - have any of you fellas come across this method? Obviously it would be a fire hazard but it evaporates VERY quickly. I'd like to try it but want to be 100% sure before commiting.

Many thanks,

Ben

[Deleted]

Horses for courses,methinks....but the cheapest is dishsoap and wipe down,and airdry...For speed,alcohol,or the panel wipes you can get from bodyshops,or Halfords..

[Tobi]

Throwing my hat into, also.

I use warm water with some fluid hand soap, a No.8 soft brush for fragile parts and an old tooth brush to work on larger areas.

For me this works best to get rid of the grease and dust that is collecting on the model during the build. It also takes the static from the model.
Rinse in clean water and let air dry on some paper.

If you have concerns about unwanted residues from the soap on your model you can spray alcohol with the airbrush on it, prior to the painting.

Cheers,
Tobi

[Teabone]

Jun 1, 2013 17:22:37 GMT -5 Hinksy said:

Hi guys,

Due to the problems and ultimate disaster with my last build I wouldn't like to see my current build go that way (Dragon JP with moulded on Zim).

I have never washed my builds before painting - perhaps I've been lucky so far but on the last build the primer was very easily chipping away from the plastic base. The slightest bit of rough handling and I'd have to do a tiny spot of touching up

So, how do I best wash a model? I assume my last build had grease or something on it and the primer reacted badly.

Do I need to immerse it in a bowl of warm soapy water and let it air dry or get a cloth and wipe it down. Perhaps a kitchen towel and cleaning chemical? I imagine it involves luke warm soapy water and a good washing - I'm just not sure of the best method and want to get it right.

This build is coming on great and I don't want to make the same mistake twice!

Cheers fellas,

Ben

It looks like there are as many methods as there are different kits.  My two cents worth, I have washed, done the alcohol rub, and think that Imatanker has about as good a method as any that I have tried.  I once heard about the models having some kind of release on them that has to be washed off.  Years ago I toured a John Mansville PVC plant making water pipe and have to believe the materials are similar and the method they used had no provision for a release and I don't think the kit makers do either.  In any event I have NEVER detected anything on the surface of the models.  And for the record I have painted them as assembled with no problems also.

All that said I have had problems from substances getting on the model during the build and the only way that I can see to avoid that is taking the time for a quick wash once assembled.

Bones

[imatanker]

Hinsky,About using lighter fluid as a cleaner,Not tooting my own horn,or saying My word is Gospel,but I have been in the Auto refinishing buisness as a pro for over 35 years.In order for a solvent based wash to work,after it has been applied,it needs to be wiped dry with a clean dry rag  before it evaporates,or paper towel in the case of modelling.If you do not wipe the model dry,all you have done is float the contaminates off the surface and as the solvent evaporates they stay behind and  are re-deposited back to the surface.This is standard procedure in the auto refinishing field and works very well.No disrespect intended to your friend.Just My 2 cents.

Bones,I agree with you my friend as far as newer armor kits go.As i have never had any problem with release agents on the newer kits.BUT,I have something on my bench right now that proves us both wrong :)I am putting together a car model by AMT that is covered with slime,you can feel it,it comes off on your hands
I tried priming it with out washing it down and had a terrible time.Some Windex and warm water,problem solved.

So,I guess what i am saying is,better safe than sorry.Kits cost too much now a days to risk having them ruined when the cure is so easy,no matter how you do it.

I wash everything now,before I start building and then again before I prime and sometimes even after I prime and get ready to apply the base coat.I also start wearing latex or nitrile gloves from the primer stage on,this cuts down the fingerprints (a major sorce of oils).

There,that's it.I've said enough, :)Jeff T.

[Teabone]

Jun 4, 2013 17:52:30 GMT -5 imatanker said:

Hinsky,About using lighter fluid as a cleaner,Not tooting my own horn,or saying My word is Gospel,but I have been in the Auto refinishing buisness as a pro for over 35 years.In order for a solvent based wash to work,after it has been applied,it needs to be wiped dry with a clean dry rag  before it evaporates,or paper towel in the case of modelling.If you do not wipe the model dry,all you have done is float the contaminates off the surface and as the solvent evaporates they stay behind and  are re-deposited back to the surface.This is standard procedure in the auto refinishing field and works very well.No disrespect intended to your friend.Just My 2 cents.

Bones,I agree with you my friend as far as newer armor kits go.As i have never had any problem with release agents on the newer kits.BUT,I have something on my bench right now that proves us both wrong :)I am putting together a car model by AMT that is covered with slime,you can feel it,it comes off on your hands
I tried priming it with out washing it down and had a terrible time.Some Windex and warm water,problem solved.

So,I guess what i am saying is,better safe than sorry.Kits cost too much now a days to risk having them ruined when the cure is so easy,no matter how you do it.

I wash everything now,before I start building and then again before I prime and sometimes even after I prime and get ready to apply the base coat.I also start wearing latex or nitrile gloves from the primer stage on,this cuts down the fingerprints (a major sorce of oils).

There,that's it.I've said enough, :)Jeff T.

"So,I guess what i am saying is,better safe than sorry.Kits cost too much
now a days to risk having them ruined when the cure is so easy,no
matter how you do it."  Your statement here is sage advise in building styrene models and it would be impossible to ever know what some manufacturer might add or do to the materials in a kit, better safe that sorry.

Bones.

[imatanker]

Jun 4, 2013 18:57:05 GMT -5 Teabone said:

Jun 4, 2013 17:52:30 GMT -5 imatanker said:

Hinsky,About using lighter fluid as a cleaner,Not tooting my own horn,or saying My word is Gospel,but I have been in the Auto refinishing buisness as a pro for over 35 years.In order for a solvent based wash to work,after it has been applied,it needs to be wiped dry with a clean dry rag  before it evaporates,or paper towel in the case of modelling.If you do not wipe the model dry,all you have done is float the contaminates off the surface and as the solvent evaporates they stay behind and  are re-deposited back to the surface.This is standard procedure in the auto refinishing field and works very well.No disrespect intended to your friend.Just My 2 cents.

Bones,I agree with you my friend as far as newer armor kits go.As i have never had any problem with release agents on the newer kits.BUT,I have something on my bench right now that proves us both wrong :)I am putting together a car model by AMT that is covered with slime,you can feel it,it comes off on your hands
I tried priming it with out washing it down and had a terrible time.Some Windex and warm water,problem solved.

So,I guess what i am saying is,better safe than sorry.Kits cost too much now a days to risk having them ruined when the cure is so easy,no matter how you do it.

I wash everything now,before I start building and then again before I prime and sometimes even after I prime and get ready to apply the base coat.I also start wearing latex or nitrile gloves from the primer stage on,this cuts down the fingerprints (a major sorce of oils).

There,that's it.I've said enough, :)Jeff T.

"So,I guess what i am saying is,better safe than sorry.Kits cost too much
now a days to risk having them ruined when the cure is so easy,no
matter how you do it."  Your statement here is sage advise in building styrene models and it would be impossible to ever know what some manufacturer might add or do to the materials in a kit, better safe that sorry.

Bones.