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Post by Tobi on Jun 22, 2013 4:09:48 GMT -5
"Talk is cheap", said my Gunny in the PC-game MOH: Pacific Assault. After swaggering in various places about my "upcoming project", I finally decided it's time to start. Here it is. Revell's all new Leopard 2A4:  A kit review by Mike Shackleton can be found here: www.leopardclub.info/#/revell-leopard-2a4/4576732957The most important infos are in it, though rivet counters may always find something more to moan about. This blog is not real time, in fact I'm almost looking forward to prime the model in the next few days. I did a headstart for hopefully being able to keep things more dense for you guys! I'm a slow builder. What I can already say is that the fit of the kit is overall really good, with only little puttying required on the lower hull and sadly on some sink marks. Because of some mental disorder I can't build models OOTB, so here come my goodies: Eduard 35974 Leopard 2A6 PE SKP 172 Lenses and taillights Leopard 2A6M SKP 074 Stranded cable 1,1mm Perfect Scale 35098 Seilkauschen (towing eyes) Perfect Scale 35097 Bundeswehr Details Perfect Scale 35032 MG3 Schatton 3555 SEM 80/90 Antenna bases
Accurate Armor D21 Fine chains
RB-Model 35B47 120mm Rh-M-120 L/44
AFV-Club AC35012 M1A2 Anti reflection coating lens stickers (why not for Leopard? - Got too much of the other type and have to cut them to fit anyway)
AFV-Club AF35S09 Leopard 2 track
The list is completed by various bits and pieces from my spares box, brass and styrene raw materials, as well as maybe a little figure from Dolp (undecided yet)!
And here are my references:
Spielberger: Waffensysteme Leopard 1 und Leopard 2 (German)
Lobitz: Kampfpanzer Leopard 2 Part 1, Entwicklung und Einsatz in der Bundeswehr (dual language German/English)
Vollert: Leopard 2 Maintenance (dual language German/English)
Wild-Wild-Web:
www.panzer.modell.de Details section (also going to post a building report there after completion, hence the effort)
www.google.de for collection of further pictures
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well It were done quickly... Tobi |
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Post by tobias5555 on Jun 22, 2013 4:19:51 GMT -5
Great, I was a commander on a Leo 2 A4 and looking forward to this build.
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Post by Tobi on Jun 22, 2013 4:25:57 GMT -5
Hah! Then maybe you can tell me what is the plate and the half-round object right form the cable reel on the turret rear? It's fixed with wingnuts.
Cheers!
Tobi
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Post by tobias5555 on Jun 22, 2013 4:59:12 GMT -5
No use for it now in the army, my Leopard didn´t have it. I think it was used for some cable, but we didn´t use this half-round thing.
Even the cabel reel was not in use at my time and it was removed.
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paulh.
Senior Member
Member since: November 2011
build, fail, learn, succeed - ENJOY
Posts: 2,389
Nov 15, 2011 15:54:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2011 15:54:51 GMT -5
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Post by paulh. on Jun 22, 2013 10:15:37 GMT -5
going to watch along with this if you don't mind?
P
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Post by Tobi on Jun 22, 2013 10:38:58 GMT -5
Always welcome Paul! I think you will like this. Pimp my tank...
Tobi
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Post by wbill76 on Jun 22, 2013 15:57:52 GMT -5
Looks like a fun one Tobi, Dicky will be very happy!  |
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Post by Tobi on Jun 23, 2013 1:09:02 GMT -5
YYYYYYYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!! Wow! That is quite possibly the most comprehensive list of AM I've ever seen assembled for a build...Havin'read Mike's excellent review it's apparent Revell haven't got it exactly right on this but any Leopard's better than no Leopard eh? Really lookin' forward to seein' this one - I've been very lucky to be gifted the new Revell 2A6 lately Hi Dicky, I'm always keen on trying something new, especially if the kit wasn't expensive. First timer for SKP stuff and the AFV lenses stickers. In the past I was quite succesfull with extracting foil from old CD's for periscopes on my Abrams, but not the most pleasant work. Cheers, Tobi |
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danb.
Reviews member 
March 2013 MoM Winner
Member since: November 2011
Posts: 2,808
Nov 17, 2011 9:22:52 GMT -5
Nov 17, 2011 9:22:52 GMT -5
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Post by danb. on Jun 23, 2013 4:12:04 GMT -5
This looks like its going to be a very nice build indeed nice list of bits and also them AFV lenses are the MUTTS NUTTS i used them on my M1 A2 looks amazing as you say there is a fair amount spare to cut your own  Dan B |
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Post by deafpanzer on Jun 23, 2013 5:13:36 GMT -5
Oh no you managed to make Dicky too excited that he will stop his build completely so he can follow this! Maybe we should send Chris over to make sure Dicky have it under control.
Count me in of course... it will be fun to follow.
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Post by Tobi on Jun 23, 2013 5:19:15 GMT -5
Oh no you managed to make Dicky too excited that he will stop his build completely so he can follow this! Maybe we should send Chris over to make sure Dicky have it under control. Count me in of course... it will be fun to follow. Now you're delirious I'm afraid. I bet nothing may ever stop the power-pope of scratch!  Tobi |
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Post by TRM on Jun 23, 2013 6:07:08 GMT -5
Now you're delirious I'm afraid. I bet nothing may ever stop the power-pope of scratch! Tobi FOOD!!  A kit....a pile of goodies.....an Ex-commander....the White Wizard and a Deaf Guy....How in the heck can you go wrong!!! Add a Polack from MA cause I'm in!!! |
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
Posts: 0
Nov 25, 2024 22:48:11 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2013 12:40:38 GMT -5
interesting project as I have a thing for leopards I will be watching with interest
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Post by Tobi on Jun 24, 2013 11:38:02 GMT -5
Note: I will stick to the clickable pictures, though this limits me to three per post. The reason is, living in an hightech country, in a blind spot for broadband internet with only an ISDN connection available, I don't want to freak out every single time I'm going to open my own thread! So please bear with me… Revell claims this kit to depict a 5th batch vehicle, the first “real” 2A4, but there are some slight inaccuracies to address to really turn it into that state. I read the instructions at the beginning to get an overview and then set them aside. There are not so many parts and it is not my first Leopard. Construction follows the tricky issues and personal liking. I started with the anti-slip surfaces on the front hull. These are of the early one piece type. The official KMW photographs clearly show multi piece surfaces, like they are correctly done by Revell on the engine deck. Though it is imaginable that stocks of the old ones have been used until done, I found a mix of early and late pattern unlikely and didn’t want to take any risk (but honestly I just don’t know). Reworking was the word of the hour, scribing to be precise. The technique used here was borrowed from the aircraft modellers, and they use Dymo tape for guidance of their scribers when making panel lines. Take your time, take good measure and don’t go too deep! Then it’s a fairly easy task and the result will also cover slightly that the details tend staying out too much from the hull surface. Don't forget to round the edges.    |
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Post by Leon on Jun 24, 2013 16:13:40 GMT -5
Off to a good start Tobi .Nice fix on the anti-skid plates. |
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Post by Tobi on Jun 25, 2013 11:13:45 GMT -5
Since I began modelling almost three decades ago I've finished three Leopard 2's so far and was never happy with the look of the exhausts! The Eduard etch alone is not sufficient. From the look of the close-ups I have, the armoured exhaust consists of several concentrical pipes and the cover grille. I took Evergreen profiles, thinned on the edges, and brass pipe for making the replacements. The brass pipe was soldered to the etch-part to improve the durability. Afterwards the moulded on exhausts were drilled out carefully and the new ones placed in the holes with the correct space from the rear plate. I made a little mistake in the construction, but noted too late. The outmost ring should be slightly shorter than the other ones. My exhausts are just plain!  I knew that before but forgot during my work...  The rear louvres for the warm air outlet are a bit undefined. I improved the look by taking a fresh No.11 scalpel blade and carefully scraping along. Use a pointed angle facing downward to thin and give more contour to the ribs. The left hand side is already done, the right side is untreated for comparison.  I also prepared the hull bottom for installation of a self made torsion bar suspension by filing half-round notches on the sides.  |
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Post by tobias5555 on Jun 25, 2013 12:36:05 GMT -5
Great Details on the exhaust, that´s how a Leo exhaust should look like in 1/35.
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Post by Leon on Jun 25, 2013 16:54:23 GMT -5
Your doing a fine job Tobi,keep it coming. |
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Post by Tobi on Jun 26, 2013 0:01:51 GMT -5
Excellent work there Tobi - all this info is being filed away in readiness for my first SERIOUS Leo build .....whenever THAT happens! Great stuff....is there any reason for the suspension scratch? Yer doin' a cut away or what? The goal is to have a working suspension. More soon. Cheers, Tobi |
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Post by Tobi on Jun 27, 2013 11:11:06 GMT -5
Next steps are for an articulated suspension. I drilled out the housings for the swivel arms and inserted styrene rods as torsion bars in the latter. From experience I know a length of approximately half the hull width is ideal. Of course this depends on the thickness of the rods and the measurements of the hull. After the glue on the swivel arms had time to dry over night I removed a wedge like part from the bearing area.    |
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bbrowniii
Full Member
Member since: March 2012
If you are not part of the solution, you are part of the precipitate.
Posts: 1,239
Mar 25, 2012 22:08:04 GMT -5
Mar 25, 2012 22:08:04 GMT -5
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Post by bbrowniii on Jun 27, 2013 11:29:36 GMT -5
WOW! That is impressive work. Love the improved exhaust.
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
Posts: 0
Nov 25, 2024 22:48:11 GMT -5
Nov 25, 2024 22:48:11 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2013 13:40:57 GMT -5
Nice work on this old chap watching with interest...
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paulh.
Senior Member
Member since: November 2011
build, fail, learn, succeed - ENJOY
Posts: 2,389
Nov 15, 2011 15:54:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2011 15:54:51 GMT -5
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Post by paulh. on Jun 27, 2013 14:28:30 GMT -5
a real idea fest -and still only page 1!
P
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Post by Tobi on Jun 27, 2013 15:45:00 GMT -5
I'm intrigued by this one Tobi - when you say a length of half the hull width is 'ideal' what do you mean? Ideal for what? I've only made representative working suspension before and if i've modelled a vehicle with wheels 'posed' I would just drill out the trailing arm mounts and postion the arms as required. This is great stuff Hi Dicky and thx fellas! Sorry if my intention hasn't become clear right now through my description. I'm going to realise a flexing suspension on this, so the swivel arms need space to travel and are only inserted. In the middle of the hull bottom there will be a small (max. 10mm wide) grouser with half-round notches to which the torsion bars are glued as a counter bearing. The working principle is excactly the same as on the real machine. By saying a length half the width is ideal I mean, that the inner balance of a single torsion bar (in conjunction with rest) between supporting the weight of the model on even ground, accomodating to uneven ground and having an appropiate reset force to regain the "0" position without exterior help, is the best. I think with the next update the method will become much more clear. I have implemented this design already on several models before and had good results. Cheers, Tobi |
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Post by Leon on Jun 27, 2013 15:52:40 GMT -5
Some impressive work there Tobi .Keep it up,your on a roll. |
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Post by wbill76 on Jun 27, 2013 19:46:18 GMT -5
Very cool, a working suspension! Love where this one's headed Tobi!
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Post by Tobi on Jun 28, 2013 11:26:17 GMT -5
Talking about a first setback already implicates another one following, but first things first. I had to glue the swivel arms in place because they didn't work as intended! This was not due to a design flaw, but because of using inferior leftover plastic material (the no-name type) for the rods instead of my proven and trusted Evergreen stuff.  Had I used this nothing would have gone wrong and considering my professional backround I should have known better! The firmness and flexibility just didn't meet my needs, and even trying to patch it by reducing the free length of the torsion bars wouldn't work. To illustrate what it would have been like under normal circumstances I have attached pictures of a Dragon Tiger B instead. I did this a while ago (reminds me that I still have to paint it). Wanted to do the "Octopus" on it.    Sorry, no working suspension on this Leopard...  Until next time. |
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Post by wbill76 on Jun 28, 2013 20:04:09 GMT -5
It's not a show stopper at least! Carry on and proceed forward! |
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Post by Tobi on Jun 29, 2013 1:15:24 GMT -5
It's not a show stopper at least! Carry on and proceed forward! Don't worry Bill! Straight on target. As I stated before, the progress of the build is much further than the thread suggests. I wanted to include all my mistakes and downfalls to show the young and unexperienced that these things happen, but are no reason to turn back. When I look at the pro's builds in the shiny magazines this often comes too short and makes one think they never fail. But it's also part of the hobby, no matter how experienced you are... Adapt and overcome! Cheers, Tobi |
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Post by Leon on Jun 29, 2013 3:54:09 GMT -5
It's not a show stopper at least! Carry on and proceed forward! Don't worry Bill! Straight on target. As I stated before, the progress of the build is much further than the thread suggests. I wanted to include all my mistakes and downfalls to show the young and unexperienced that these things happen, but are no reason to turn back. When I look at the pro's builds in the shiny magazines this often comes too short and makes one think they never fail. But it's also part of the hobby, no matter how experienced you are... Adapt and overcome! Cheers, Tobi Tobi, i totally agree with you on your comment .No body's perfect,and mistakes do happen.Model on fella,your doing a great job. |
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I knew that before but forgot during my work...
