AK Burnishing Fluid

[Tojo72]

I'm getting ready to try this out on my Fruils,I have a couple of questions,first I have thoroughly scrubbed them with acetone,now do the track runs have to be totally laid out straight for it to work,or can the be doubled over or rolled up when put in the fluid,I know that I have to keep working the tracks to break up the air bubbles,are there any other hints or suggestions to apply ?

Thanks,Anthony

[TRM]

You should be good doubling them over I would just agitate things every so often. Are you planning on cutting the fluid 50/50?

[Tojo72]

Yes,as per the Uschi video tutorial on YouTube

[TomN]

Just curious...can you dump all the track links into the solution unassembled?

Or is it better to assemble them first?

Tom

[TRM]

I would say its best to assemble first Tom. With all the handling there is a chance of burnishing the parts to a shine again...even if you plan on doing this after weathering.

[macmcconnell]

Guys
A few words on this subject. The effect is great I use this stuff all the time I did the 50/50 split with water as instructed the first second and third time, with a new bottle for each set tried a while later to do another set and it did very little. £11.oo for one set not cheap. I cleaned the tracks with vinegar
While at Telford I spoke to the guy from Ushi who supplies AK. Everything he said I had done nothing was lost in translation so why only one set?..i don't know.
Round 2
I got 2 bottles emptied into a jar. I cleaned the tracks with oven cleaner washed them clean in tap water dried them and dropped them in assembled for about an hour. Every 10 mins or so I gave a little shake then remove after dipping them in the solution a few more times to shake any big fluid particles off, as these are what cause the discoloration. Then clean with water thus far I have done with the pure solution, 2 x T80 sets ,1 x T72 Set, 1 x winter ketten,1xKingTiger 1x38T if you count the KT Track as 2 thus far 7 sets.

Once dry I wash the tracks in a thinned solution of Mig Powder.

that's my experience thus far hope that helps

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

I used to use 'Black Tracks' from TI Hobbies in the UK. It's not so simple to use as there are three bottles to use to complete the sequence but the effect probably has the edge over the AK stuff - it definately gives a more realistic rusty colour (if that's what you are after).

I've got a set of Black Tracks Solution and three AK ones (Armour Models in the UK sell the Black Tracks stuff if you want to try it).

What I was going to say was that I've once pre-blackened my Friuls prior to assembly (Tiger I Friuls) and they worked out just fine - the main bonus being you can access all areas of the links to agitate and blacken them.

It's worth a try - have a go.

When I do my Pz.III Friuls I put them in a tub all coiled up quite loosely and then just make sure you try and get into every little nook and cranny to get the effect - for agitating the links I use a stiff bristled hand brush like you use for washing up and a stiff bristle toothbrush for getting inbetween the links to ensure full coverage.

Ben

[Tojo72]

Thanks guys,they came out pretty good,I finished them off with AK Track Wash and Rust Wash

[ceresvesta]

Thanks for this Tojo! very usefull! I was just wondering if I should buy some....Now I surely will.