coro69
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Jan 7, 2015 20:58:46 GMT -5
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Post by coro69 on Mar 20, 2015 18:56:56 GMT -5
thanks for your tips trm. i just have to experiment. in fact i do not really want to change my brand of paint i use. i already have so much of vallejo... i will start new fresh experiments tomorrow... i think my vallejo chipping medium and top coat was to thick when i read your tips. i keep you informed of the results... when there are postable results i also will make pictures... ;-)
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Post by TRM on Mar 20, 2015 19:25:29 GMT -5
Awesome!! Always keep as many tools on the bench that you can!! You can use hairspray with the vallejo too. Best thing to do is keep playing around...only way to truly work things out! I keep old models next to the desk just to mess around with stuff all the time!! Good luck!!
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 22, 2015 12:45:52 GMT -5
i think i fell in love today... her name is tamiya xf-... still not the results i want to achieve, but with the right paint, patience and a lot of trying it is possible to get there...
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Post by deafpanzer on Mar 22, 2015 13:19:32 GMT -5
Tamiya is excellent for chipping... great work there!
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 22, 2015 13:34:26 GMT -5
Looks very good! Everyone in Germany told me to buy Vallejo. But I ordered Tamiya before. In fact of so many advices I ordered Vallejo too. After using both, Tamiya and Vallejo, I like the Tamiya many more
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Post by deafpanzer on Mar 22, 2015 13:55:00 GMT -5
90% of my paint is Vallejo now... I like it for both airbrushing and hand brushing. I have tried to hand paint Tamiya and I hated it. I wanted something that can do "both" well. Only thing I didn't like about Vallejo is chipping as you have to be very careful to do the chipping procedure.
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 22, 2015 14:26:46 GMT -5
But you use the airbrushcolors, don't you?
I just started with airbrush and first I took my model colors with much water. Then I tried the createx opaque but I am not pleased with them. Next I want to try Schmincke air color and Hansa pro color and any illustration color. A few airbrush artists told me, these colors are very good. But I don't want to airbrush only in models. I also want to paint pictures and portraits like I do with pastels.
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Post by deafpanzer on Mar 22, 2015 14:40:40 GMT -5
I love airbrushing... I agree Tamiya does well for airbrushing! It is great that you can use it for many purposes. I am more into figure and bust painting right now and it has been working well for me.
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 22, 2015 15:52:25 GMT -5
brushing tamiya colors i didn't try until now... i believe you, if you say that they are not good for brushing... also i have only vallejo air colors, some vallejo model... for figure painting i like these colors... but for airbrushing i have always the problem of clogging my needle with vallejo. no matter whether i use them with thinner, without thinner, different ratios of thinner, much pressure, less pressure... so stepping into a change of color brand is also a money issue...
also i managed to airbrush much more finer layers with the tamiya paints... so in the end this is only a question with which usages you are trying and which brand is useful and comfortable with that...
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Post by kaytermarram on Mar 22, 2015 17:18:31 GMT -5
Tamiya colours are a pain in the a$$ to paint with a brush, it does not work really, they are to thick, to much pigments for brush using. Here, Vallejo and LifeColor works best for me due to the fact that I use only brushes and paint only with heavy diluted paint in several layers. But will afford me an airbrush sometime and try out to spray paint, too.
Frank
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 22, 2015 17:28:49 GMT -5
for airbrushing i get more and more the feeling that tamiyas are more manageable and controllable... the way i airbrush at least... :-)
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k1w1
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Post by k1w1 on Mar 23, 2015 1:42:21 GMT -5
Interesting topic Tamiya verses Vallejo. I use a paache single action airbrush. With Tamiya acrylic thinned with Tamiya thinner I never get any clogging with my airbrush. Most other brands all seem to clog it up. Recently I have moved to Vallejo for brush painting mainly because I like what I can do effects wise by adding plain old water to the paint, in varying quantites. I also suspect breathing the fumes from Tamiya paint to be worse for ones health than that of Vallejo paint. I have occasionally had problems brush painting with Tamiya and the solvents in it partially dissolving some of the previous layer. So now I have a range of both brands - seems to be the easiest solution ?.
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 23, 2015 4:11:47 GMT -5
Maybe we should start a new thread to discuss the different ways of airbrush?
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 23, 2015 18:20:54 GMT -5
adding oils and pigments... a little bit overdone i think... as usual, in nature it looks a bit better... but maybe its my bad eyes now... ;-)
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madairbrush
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Cheers!! Matt
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Post by madairbrush on Mar 24, 2015 14:01:20 GMT -5
I am a bit late, but I wanna tell you my experience, too. I use the airbrush since many years and I tried many different colors. The Schminke colors for paintings, Tamiya and Revell airbrush colors. Since a few years I use AK interactive products and the vallejo colors, too. For modeling stuff, I prefer the vallejo colors. Like the most of you said, you have some problems clogging the airbrush, but for my model airbrush stuff it is ok. I use the thinner and clean after every color. For miniature painting with airbrush, I prefer the Games Workshop colors, deluded with water. Works really good and you can clean it with the vallejo cleaner, too. I made many different models with chipping effects. I used the AK rust colors for priming and used the vallejo model air colors. The best chipping results I had with hairspray, not with the modern chipping stuff. I tried this effects with worn effects and heavy chipping from AK, but the better results I had with hairspray. (in combination with the vallejo colors). You can work many hours on the model scratching the color and so. With the chipping fluids you have not so much time, I think. But you have to make your own experience with this technique, to find out the best way for yourself. Here an example of these chipping technique. I used some washes and oil paints, too. 5DMKII_21801 by mad_airbrush, on Flickr
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 24, 2015 15:46:06 GMT -5
hey mad, first a great looking damn old tank... :-)
in my experiments so far i tried hairspray and vallejos chipping medium. as you said the chipping medium did not convince me. the results with hairspray are better... i also did have another talk with a friend of mine and he also told me, chipping with vallejo model air would be easy...
so looking at your tank i know something i did wrong... :-) maybe too much water, too thick coat of paint... i do not know, but i will give vallejo another try... even to rescue my already big stash of vallejo colors...
but still i have the problem of clogging the paint in my airbrush. that sucks sucks sucks sucks really... and now after i bought some more paints from tamiya and the right thinner for it, all i can say, no clogging in my brush and i feel i have more control over the paint...
which airbrush and nozzle do you use? i use a hs infinity with a fineline .4 nozzle, with my .15 nozzle painting vallejo was nearly impossible...
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 24, 2015 16:55:30 GMT -5
An infinity, Oli? I heard only good things about it. That must be a wunderful gun. I baught a HS Ultra to start airbrushing. A beginner-gun
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 24, 2015 17:22:24 GMT -5
the first gun i bought was a cheap sparmax. my local gun dealer :-) suggested this one for as a starter... for the first model and try outs it was ok. but after buying the infinity i realized the difference between the two guns. the infinity is more precise... i use the sparmax mostly now for the rude tasks, like airbrushing with water thinned pigments...
nut the ultra is already a fine piece of gun i heard... the infinity i love... ;-)
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 27, 2015 15:44:34 GMT -5
long time no update, but weathering the detail bits is slowly but steady progressing... ;-)
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 27, 2015 16:34:31 GMT -5
Great work again, Oli. Did I ever say that I love your grasses and street?
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Post by wbill76 on Mar 29, 2015 12:06:42 GMT -5
Those guys are living dangerously with an MG42 propped up next to fuel drums and a pump! Nice to see the details coming to life on this one.
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 29, 2015 13:12:41 GMT -5
wbill76 you know, hard times afford hard guys... ;-) yes after goofing around with rust experiments, results have to be shown... ;-) lunaiko nope that much appreciation you never expressed... ;-)
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Post by kaytermarram on Mar 30, 2015 4:23:08 GMT -5
Rust, which brings me to the discussion painted rust vs. instant rust. I have used instant rust (I guess, everybody knows what I mean). It´s cool because you get even a structure with the stuff. But painting rust is also not bad. I guess, a combination between the both could ba a possible sollution...
Frank
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 30, 2015 7:03:36 GMT -5
howdy frank, with instant rust you mean this 2 component stuff? i have some 2 component instant rust here at home, but i fll the effect of that as texture for 1/35 a little bit off scale. i will try adding some pigments as rust texture or as a friend of mine, he puts steel wool over night into a water vinegar mix.
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lunaiko
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Post by lunaiko on Mar 30, 2015 7:31:27 GMT -5
Yep... the vinegar fastens the effect. You just can stand and look the rust grow I used the vinegar for my rust "breed" too. After finishing the rust growing I crushed the steelwool and pulled out the metall with a magnet. At the model I apply it on a very very thin and mostly dried layer of glue. The 2-component-rust consists of a ferric oxide and an fastener. You can only use the first component but it takes time to grow the rust. Is that right?
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 30, 2015 8:17:09 GMT -5
puhh, just using one of the components i never tried... the only time i used it i used both of the components. but as one of them is a ferric oxide it probably will work without the second component... but you have to wait as nature does its job... ;-)
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Post by kaytermarram on Mar 30, 2015 13:54:14 GMT -5
Yep, it is this two componend stuff. I have used it fresh from the bottle and you can watch the rust grow (I have used it to get a texture on a robot figure in a small dio called THE DISEASE, and the disease is done with the rust effect). I think, there are several ways to alter a surface and rust always looks good. I have a plan of doing something from the game SILENT HILL, and there are tons of sets done in mostly rust. Will be interesting...
Frank
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k1w1
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Post by k1w1 on Mar 31, 2015 8:23:45 GMT -5
I also like your grass - It looks very real.
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 31, 2015 8:46:20 GMT -5
thanks kiwi, i try my best... :-)
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coro69
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Post by coro69 on Mar 31, 2015 8:47:45 GMT -5
kaytermarram and you were satisfied with the produced rust texture? wasn't it too coarse?
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