joelsmith
Full Member
Member since: July 2012
There no winners in war, only survivors.
Posts: 1,404
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 29, 2016 4:54:05 GMT -5
Looking good CD! Glad I could help out with the periscope guards, talk more soon, Joel
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Post by deafpanzer on Dec 29, 2016 9:59:14 GMT -5
Wow! Those 3D made guards look great!!! Sometimes metal guard is pain in butt to deal with. A friend of mine at the local club bought several sets of same thing but for tool clasps and they looked great!!!
Keep up with the great posts!
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 1, 2017 9:28:33 GMT -5
Making good progress here CD! Nice work.
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leopardman
Junior Member
Member since: September 2015
Posts: 34
Sept 2, 2015 11:26:55 GMT -5
Sept 2, 2015 11:26:55 GMT -5
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Post by leopardman on Jan 4, 2017 14:55:17 GMT -5
Great Job on the old Tamiya gal.Ive got the same kit and the 105mm version staring at me from my shelf.Love your additions to your build.Doing a mighty fine job well done indeed sir. Richard
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Post by Leon on Jan 4, 2017 20:55:40 GMT -5
Nice work on the guards and primer CD!
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 4, 2017 21:25:26 GMT -5
I've got the base coat of Olive drab on, but need to spend some more time sniffing paint before she'll be ready for photos.
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Post by deafpanzer on Jan 4, 2017 21:44:42 GMT -5
Can I join you?!?!? LOL Looking forward to the pics...
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flmlm
Full Member
Member since: March 2016
Crack open that kit and smell the build ????
Posts: 170
Mar 16, 2016 8:56:08 GMT -5
Mar 16, 2016 8:56:08 GMT -5
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Post by flmlm on Jan 12, 2017 9:33:23 GMT -5
Really beautiful build you've got going there.
Regards Mike
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 16, 2022 18:49:42 GMT -5
So, this build has been staring me in the face for a long time... When I originally began working on this kit, I wasn't going to put any storage on it; however, things change I added some crates, ammo cans, and fuel cans onto the back deck and covered them with a tarp made out of blue shop paper towels. I've never done a tarp before so I experimented with several different materials for the tarp. I used Tissue paper, plain printer paper, post-it note, blue shop towel, vellum, and textured cardstock. I mixed up some clear Elmers glue and water and soaked the various papers in it. Pulled it out and patted down each side to get the excess off, then using a paintbrush dipped in the glue mix, I worked the tarps over my test stowage. The tissue paper was really easy to work with; however, the finished product looked too thin to me. The plain paper worked pretty well. The post-it note, vellum, and cardstork were too thick to maintain a proper-looking drape over the stowage. The Blue shop towel looked the best, so that's what I used on the model. I will give it more attention during the detail painting and weathering phases. I then added some of the bags that came with the kit to the side of the turret. Since I originally didn't plan to add stowage, then changed my mind after the model was almost fully painted, I didn't have anything to show the bags attached to proper mounting spots. So we're going to break out the handy Dspaie time machine (Available for $1,999 @ AliExpress) and pretend the crew used velcro to attach the bags to the side of the turret. This model will never grace a competition table, so I'm not real worried about using Velcro. I tried to spray the olive drab based on what I've seen in videos and from the members here sage advice. Grey Primer Black Base Shadow coat of Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab The main coat of "scale" olive drab consisting of a 2:1 mix ratio XF62:XF60 Dark Yellow Lighter coat of light OD consisting of 1:1 XF62:XF60 Highlights were done with 1:3 XF62:XF60 There's a big freaking mold line on that jerry can...add to punch list Up next detail painting/decals/very slight chipping/clear coat/washes ETA: Yea so I put the stowage on the turret in the spot the decals would normally go . I'm going to enter this one in the next model of the month club we have. THOUGHT: We should start doing those again.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 17, 2022 0:56:22 GMT -5
When it comes to chipping: less is more!
One can make an outstanding model without any chipping at all, and one can completely ruin a model by overdone chipping. That said, don't use sponge technique overall.
You have a beautiful base there and the timber on the glacis is looking excellent from here
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 17, 2022 1:22:05 GMT -5
Thanks Tobi!
The wood on the Glacis is cut from a hobby stick and weathered with Floquil's dirty grime wash and Floquil Walnut wood stain.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Dec 17, 2022 14:31:26 GMT -5
Fine color modulation from what I see, looks great. Good to see this one got you to finish it, HA!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 17, 2022 15:01:16 GMT -5
Thanks Steve! I'm pretty happy with how this one is turning out. This will be my best effort to date if I don't screw it up between now and the finish line.
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reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,349
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
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Post by reserve on Dec 18, 2022 14:49:59 GMT -5
By the looks of this you've got the airbrush thing down
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 19, 2022 23:53:05 GMT -5
The current state of the build. My next step is to lay down a gloss coat, then add the decals. After the decals, I am considering doing a dark brown pin wash and calling it a day on the body of the tank. I haven't done the tracks (Tamiya rubber bands) yet beyond putting down a base coat of Nato black. Since I'm not planning on weathering beyond the pin wash, the tracks should also represent a fairly clean vehicle. Would love to hear your opinions.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 20, 2022 3:44:52 GMT -5
Ahhh, everything worked perfectly up to this point, and now the fear of screwing up. Who hasn't felt the same before?
You can stick to your plan and will end up with a model that will make a perfect entry in the Tamiya catalog for kit #35250. It's just that it will look like a model, very clean and very static. Not like a real machine. A testimony of solid assembly skills, but also a little lack of imagination. I call this style the American school of painting, after the Spanish school that has started becoming popular in the late Nineties. It's the way Shepard Payne and Francois Verlinden did their models (really great modelers and pioneers of our hobby), and there is nothing wrong with it as long as it's what you desire and want to achieve.
What you could do however after the pin wash, is play with some gloss and semi gloss effects. Similar to a pin wash, you can achieve oil, grease and fuel effects with the same brown pin wash and different amounts of gloss mixed to that. The application is the same, only the afterwards clean up is skipped or reduced and thereby altered. More workable and also easier to remove, if something went wrong, is linseed oil mixed with brown oil color. Play with the opacity and pick out a few selected areas. Hinges work good, or around fuel filler caps, damp zones in nooks around the turret ring, the possibilities are endless. Just don't overdo and step back from time to time. You can always add more later.
Also very easy to use is the speckling technique and that can be done with the same mixes like before. It will add interest to large surfaces and can even imitate small chipping, depending on the opacity, or stains. You need a stiff bristle brush, a clean flat brush damped with thinner and some kitchen paper. Load the bristle brush with the mix and use your finger or a stick to flick the paint out. First on the paper and if enough mix is gone and you get small speckles, switch to the model. You can make corrections with the flat brush and remove them completely where you don't want them. You will notice the speckling in the Leopard pics I've posted, though I did limit them to the horizontal surfaces and wanted them looking mostly damp
You may stop here, but I suggest sealing the work and continue with a little dust wash and some streaks. Just enough of a hint that it is there. If you bring dust to damp areas don't forget to make it look damp as well.
For the tracks: lay them out flat, apply some dry pigments to them (two or three matching tones is enough) and seal everything with a dropper and some Tamiya acrylic thinner X-20A. Let dry. Carefully dry brushing the track pads with dark grey will enhance the look even more. You may want to dirty up the running gear and lower hull more in the process to have a match.
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 20, 2022 6:13:22 GMT -5
First off, Brian this is a very informative and fun build to follow. It's just looking so dang good to this point.
Secondly, I can't get over all of the information regarding techniques and skill that I'm seeing in this thread. I may have to bookmark this one so I can come back to it later.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 20, 2022 6:48:08 GMT -5
A small remark: the usual sequence after pin washing is first the dusting, then the spilled effects and speckling, but since Brian is not yet sure about his way, it does work also inverse. Maybe repeated emphasizing back and forth at the end could also be useful. Translucent layering is more work, but also better to control
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 20, 2022 9:04:07 GMT -5
Tobi if we ever find ourselves in the same geographic location, I owe you several beverages of your choosing!
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Post by Tobi on Dec 20, 2022 13:02:06 GMT -5
Tobi if we ever find ourselves in the same geographic location, I owe you several beverages of your choosing! Sounds great friend!
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Post by rbaer on Dec 20, 2022 17:52:12 GMT -5
Brian, don't get set in your ways regarding the order of dust/pin washes/wear indicators etc. I try and do my stuff with an overall wash first, then depending on colors I have picked I may do dirt and grime followed by a pin wash or do the pin wash, then dirt, dust and grime. It just depends on the effects that show up as I work and my desired state of grunge/no grunge. In other words, be flexible. The more you do it, the more comfortable you'll get.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 21, 2022 21:09:24 GMT -5
Before I put down a gloss coat, I did a pin wash using Raw Umber oil paint diluted with mineral spirits. I spent a lot of time trying to blend the wash into the paint. Working with oils was much easier than I expected. I really liked how easy it was to move the color around and blend. All of my previous experiences had been with using premade commercial washes from AK, MIG, etc. I decided to do the pin wash before a gloss coat to take advantage of the wicking of flat paints. When applied over the flat coat the wash tends to spread out, I used that to help me blend the wash into the hull paint. The pictures below show the current state of the build. One of the modelers I follow on YouTube is a guy named Wil Pattinson, he posted a video of some tests he conducted to see if a gloss coat was truly needed or simply a modeling myth. His conclusion was that you don't have to put down a gloss coat, you can decal directly on the paint. I am considering that; however, I would value your opinions. Baring advice to the contrary, my next step will be to gloss the model using Tamiya X22 Gloss Clear diluted 50/50 with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Is there anything else I should do at this point before I put on the gloss coat? I must admit, I'm pretty happy with how this is turning out. It is by far, my best effort and it makes me look forward to the next build to see if I can surpass myself. Much appreciation and thank you for your help!
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Post by Tobi on Dec 22, 2022 1:18:41 GMT -5
Solid work! Looks well executed.
Regarding the gloss coat: the idea behind glossing your model before washing is, that a gloss color dries smother than a flat color. What makes colors appear flat is the talcum to them, which roughens the surface and breaks the light so that there is no shine, very basically spoken. So if you apply a wash to a flat painted surface, you may risk that the wash is gripping into the irregularities in the paint instead of running around the details and is difficult to remove again. People who gloss their models before washing do this in the first instance for flow improvement and easing decal appllication. Among some modelers it's also popular to choose a middle way and just semi-gloss the model. They do this to some extend based on the argument, that a semi-gloss shine is more realistic because WWII colors weren't that dead flat (I can neither deny nor confirm that, except for the fact that gloss color is more resilient, so please someone show me the mixing tables of the production plants that would support this theory?), also the semi-gloss will give a nicer contrast to a flat dust wash (aesthetics) and they can therefore skip the flat coating after the washing (laziness).
Personally, I do washings with and without gloss coating before. Really depends on how I feel about my base and what I want to achieve, also in hindsight on the following steps. In the past I had both the paint gripper thing on some occasions (really nasty), but also the other extreme where my pin wash would not produce enough contrast by just flowing away and shifting into a filter then.
Now that you're past the washing stage, the only reason for glossing is avoid the silvering of decals. Therefore you can limit the application to their locations. You avoid unnecessary paint coats that way. It goes without saying that the glossy parts will need a flat coat in the aftermath again, just for the sake of completeness? The canonical sequence of handling decals is gloss, decal softener*, decal application, decal adhesive*, again gloss and finally flat. You may leave some steps out, as well as seeing the need of repeating them, for example one time softener might be insufficient if decal refuses to adapt or no 2nd gloss is needed if decals are really thin. For that reason I try to use stencils and an airbrush or dry transfers wherever possible.
*) might be also swapped. Best stick to the provided instructions, since there are so many magic tinctures. Grandpa's style was some vinegar in the water where you dissolve the decal from the carrier paper.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 22, 2022 3:05:19 GMT -5
One of the modelers I follow on YouTube is a guy named Wil Pattinson, he posted a video of some tests he conducted to see if a gloss coat was truly needed or simply a modeling myth. His conclusion was that you don't have to put down a gloss coat, you can decal directly on the paint. I am considering that; however, I would value your opinions. I wouldn't recommend that, unless the decal has absolutely no visible transparent decal carrier film, for example you cut the borders of a white star exactly back to the shape.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 22, 2022 10:37:55 GMT -5
Tobi, if I use Archer dry transfers for the U.S. Stars, is there a need to clear coat first?
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Post by Tobi on Dec 22, 2022 12:27:07 GMT -5
Tobi, if I use Archer dry transfers for the U.S. Stars, is there a need to clear coat first? For Archer dry transfers is no clear coat needed before, but I strongly suggest sealing them with flat clear once applied. Watch out, Archer is selling also wet transfers!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 22, 2022 12:39:14 GMT -5
Didn't I read somewhere that Archer is going out of business?
I double checked, I have dry transfers. My plan, after I apply them, is to give the model a coat of Testors Dulcote.
Then I'm going to focus on the tracks and running gear.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 22, 2022 12:52:52 GMT -5
Out of business is new to me. I only read a statement they can no longer print dry transfers, because the carrier film is going out of production. So stash up while you can. For me there is sadly almost no possibility left, because ordering from US got insanely expensive. I'll have to do with what I have
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 22, 2022 13:23:29 GMT -5
This is the banner on their website
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Dec 22, 2022 15:53:42 GMT -5
Yep, they're pulling up stakes, bummer.
Rig looks god, CD!
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