Roden 1/32 DH-2

[paddy]

So this is a challenge to myself..........basically do i need to pay £200 for a WnW model to get a half decent DH-2 on my shelf....?







I loved the wing nut models, the detail and ease of construction, sharp mouldings and excellent instructions but i am not now prepared to pay through the nose for a used example. So often i paid over top in the past for discontinued kits only to find them re released shortly after and the value of my tiny stash slashed.

An example of this was several Hasegawa models i grabbed back in the day as they were to subject of Aires resin kits only to now find hobby 2000 producing the same models at a greatly discounted price to other comparative models



So here we have Roden 1/32 DH-2. First look in the box and i am already thinking i made a mistake here ...then i thought...it would be boring if it wasn't a challenge.






The kit motor is just 6 pieces and you don't use one of them















The engine is really simple, i found some pictures of a Gnome rotary, remember a radial has a spinning crank and a rotary has a stationery crank so its understandable that you don't want ignition wires and other parts spinning round at 2000 rpm

[paddy]

Fuselage has some ejection marks. or should i say the ejection marks have a fuselage attached

[406 Silverado]

Oh BOY!!! And Paddy is off to the races on another spectacular build in action......and in 32nd scale at that!! I'll be watching this one bud.

[406 Silverado]

Nov 17, 2023 7:35:49 GMT -5 paddy said:

Fuselage has some ejection marks. or should i say the ejection marks have a fuselage attached

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!   Man that is CRAZY on those pin marks!! I did recently acquire a little tool that helps out with those thanks to chromdome. 

[handiabled]

Bookmarked! Don't you just love the thought process that must go into making a mold with ejector marks right next to molded details.... I have no doubt you will beat them into submission

[deafpanzer]

You are off to a great start! Just like you I will never spend so much $$$ on those Wing Nut kits. A new player will release those for much less eventually so I can wait...

[paddy]

So just catching up here as i started this a few days ago
The ejection marks were beyond me so i basically just cut them out along with the diagonal rigging on the framework.



I did the wood frame with oils then covered the in-between sections with masking take
then re added the rigging with .3mm nickel rod



The masking tape stays as it has a cloth appearance and covers the ejector pin marks although i have given it a wash with doped linen paint MRP. . The other ejector pin marks will be hidden

[paddy]

And this where i am so up to date now




The wood is oil paint to give a grain, brass bits are Alclad brass paint sprayed over doped linen colour
The seat is a PE job from Eduard all other parts are OTB

TBH i have heard nightmares about these roden kits but while its not all done for you, you do get most of the pasrts you need .

[Tobi]

What I saw so far is splendid!
I hear you about the WnW kits. I have hope the molds will find their way to another manufacturer. Meng did finish their Fokker Dr.I and sold it for the half the price an original WnW kit would have been at (before the OOP status skyrocketed them).

[kyledehart5]

Excellent. I love ww1 aircraft but the rigging keeps me far far away. I’ll happy watch as Paddy puts his Roden together. Especially a nice big one like this. Great work so far. Lovely work on the fuselage, the engine is very tidy too.

[handiabled]

Classy looking detail you are adding to this, the brass and wood look perfect

[paddy]

Looking ahead i have been experimenting with turn buckles.........or twisting bits of wire
this new to me so here i have a 0.1 and 0.2 mm twisted wire loop..




And this is 0.6mm tube with 0.4mm bore so i can just get two lengths of .2mm fishing line through it.



If i put a length of piano wire through the brass tube it stops it collapsing when i roll it under a scalpel to cut it.

I figure i will need about 80 each of these. The real problem is even under a 5x magnifying lamp i cant see too thread. I can do it but it takes several attempts each time and i must have a very clean cut on the tube and the thread or i cant get 2x 0.2 thread through 1x 0.4 tube....

[406 Silverado]

Your progress on this one is up to your usual amazing standards Paddy. I like the way you negotiated those injector pin marks. I've recently acquired a tool thanks to Brian ( chromdome35 ) to help out with getting rid of them for good!! This thing works GREAT!!! 




redirect.viglink.com/?key=71fe2139a887ad501313cd8cce3053c5&subId=3375912&u=https%3A//newtype.us/p/gLifjhBLuJ00UIA0Ccq6/h/es-p-portable-electric-sanding-pen

The sanding pads can be found here :
redirect.viglink.com/?key=71fe2139a887ad501313cd8cce3053c5&subId=3375912&u=https%3A//www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804834361050.html%3Fspm%3Da2g0o.productlist.main.3.68ee3b8fyUenAw%26algo_pvid%3Dcc5c83db-8f92-4c83-b633-1f05f1e0b8d1%26algo_exp_id%3Dcc5c83db-8f92-4c83-b633-1f05f1e0b8d1-1%26pdp_npi%3D4%2540dis%2521USD%25215.76%25213.8%2521%2521%25215.76%2521%2521%25402101f4a116928427255831114e869f%252112000033741590796%2521sea%2521US%25213952334907%2521%26curPageLogUid%3DYPxNgqmBQYT8

[buddho]

Nov 17, 2023 18:01:29 GMT -5 paddy said:

And this where i am so up to date now




The wood is oil paint to give a grain, brass bits are Alclad brass paint sprayed over doped linen colour
The seat is a PE job from Eduard all other parts are OTB

TBH i have heard nightmares about these roden kits but while its not all done for you, you do get most of the pasrts you need .

Beautiful work, here. Watching this one. 

[paddy]

I had planned to do this is in CDL all over (clear doped linen) but a couple of years ago i went to the RAF museum London to take some reference pictures of rigging. What I noticed is the linen is transparent with back light or direct light but opaque with shadow or at some angles.
this would imposable to replicate without transparent plastic wings.




You can se here some of the wing is almost see through while other parts are not, it depends on the lighting which is not going to ever be even TBH. I dare say someone a lot more skilled than me might find a way round this but my solution is going to be to give the upper surfaces a coat of olive drab which then removes the problem of back lighting of the wing spars and ribs





pictures hijacked from the WnW instructions

Also for reference some picks from the museum i took of some rigging. I cant replicate the fixings but it gives some idea of the rig wires etc.







actually these  2 pictures show what i was saying, both clear doped but the top is see through and the bottom is not, its just lighting

[Leon]

This is coming along nicely Paddy!

[handiabled]

Have you looked into pe options for the rigging? I haven't dabbled in them but they look interesting

www.eduard.com/eduard/photo-etched-parts/photo-etched-set/aircraft/1-32/wires-%26-stretchers-1-32.html

[stikpusher]

PE flat wire is a better option for later biplanes, after "flying" airfoil shaped wire was introduced.

[paddy]

The problem with PE is you need to tension it because this model will be very flexible given the very thin fuselage structure and the large wing balanced on thin struts. You might get away with it in 1/72 or maybe 1/48 but i doubt it would work well in 1/32











I think i need to get the basic colours on now as it will be impossable once assembled and 
Surface detail is not up to WnW std but with the PE it makes a big difference

I am going with olive drab on top and CDL on the underside








I need to get the basic colours on now as it will be impossible once its assembled and rigged
( do i sound like i know what i am doing )

[paddy]

This doable , bearing in mind i need to do about 80 of these fittings

[tcoat]

Nov 22, 2023 4:10:42 GMT -5 paddy said:

This doable , bearing in mind i need to do about 80 of these fittings

You will need far more patience than I could ever muster for that task but sure it is doable. Well worth the effort in that large scale though. Not sure it be worth the trouble in anything smaller. 

[deafpanzer]

80?!? You definitely have more patience than us like tcoat said! Looking real good!

[stikpusher]

Nov 22, 2023 7:46:03 GMT -5 tcoat said:

Nov 22, 2023 4:10:42 GMT -5 paddy said:

This doable , bearing in mind i need to do about 80 of these fittings

You will need far more patience than I could ever muster for that task but sure it is doable. Well worth the effort in that large scale though. Not sure it be worth the trouble in anything smaller. 

I know a guy in IPMS who does that level of detailing on his 1/48 biplanes, as well as the 1/32 builds of his. He first started by using sewing needle eyes.

I believe it is Gaspatch that makes turnbuckles as aftermarket items in both scales.

[tcoat]

Nov 22, 2023 13:10:28 GMT -5 stikpusher said:

Nov 22, 2023 7:46:03 GMT -5 tcoat said:

You will need far more patience than I could ever muster for that task but sure it is doable. Well worth the effort in that large scale though. Not sure it be worth the trouble in anything smaller. 

I know a guy in IPMS who does that level of detailing on his 1/48 biplanes, as well as the 1/32 builds of his. He first started by using sewing needle eyes.

I believe it is Gaspatch that makes turnbuckles as aftermarket items in both scales.

If I had to use sewing needle eyes for anything I would find a new hobby! Just ain't gonna' happen with me. 

[paddy]

I made a start but not really happy as its all to large but you live and learn. The sizes here are more like 1/24 TBH

[deafpanzer]

WOW! That kind of work really requires a lot of patience… I think they look good to me anyway.

[handiabled]

From the picture they look like they belong and not out of scale to me. I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks with the rigging done. Your killing this build so far it looks outstanding!

[adt70hk]

Paddy

Sorry completely missed the start of this. As the other's have said, great work so far.

ATB

Andrew

[paddy]

I have gone ahead and finished one section bar the black paint to see if its all going to work
It takes forever, I mean its a really slow process because I am working with tweezers and a magnifying glass but it looks ok so far. Could get tricky around the centre struts.

[tcoat]

"Looks OK"?

OK???