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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 16, 2024 12:06:01 GMT -5
I'll second that motion! What clear are you going with Marc ( dupes ) ? That looks like a small block Chevrolet engine with a 4 speed overdrive tranny....possibly a 700R4 or 4L60E? Either way it's going to look killer under that hood. Try a coat of Tamiya Smoke airbrushed over the rocker covers and see how that turns out. It'll take the toy effect away from the chrome and make it look more like real life chrome. Same with the wheels and bumpers if you're leaving all of that chrome. I have NO idea what engine that is. A 37 Ford engine? This is where my car ignorance comes in to play. Clears - I have a couple of Mr Hobby bottles I haven't tried yet. GX100 and 112, I think? LOL!! Small block Chevy bro. Have you tried Testors Wet Look? For me.....it's the best out there. Just decant it and let it gas out to get all the air bubbles out and shoot a couple of mist coats all the way around the body, followed up with a good wet coat starting at the lower surfaces of the car body and working your way to the roof. Stuff is golden. MCW Bridgehamton Blue with a Wet Look clear on my Vette.
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 12:16:10 GMT -5
Dang. That's hot. Where do I find this stuff?
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 12:16:51 GMT -5
Twist my arm, will ya…😜😂 Looks like the same kit to me! I left the bumpers off.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 16, 2024 12:20:04 GMT -5
Dang. That's hot. Where do I find this stuff? Right here: Wet Look Clear
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Post by kyledehart5 on Mar 16, 2024 12:22:12 GMT -5
Cool color options. If you were worried about paint being fragile for setting solutions you could always do a quick coat of clear to seal the paint and then do your decals. Then another coat of clear if you so desire. As for the wet look.l from testors, it does indeed look great. And it’s generally pretty easy to find. Even hobby lobby will have it on their shelves most of the time or your favorite online hobby store that may carry testors. I think I’ve gotten it in a hobbylinc order before, for instance.
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Post by moparman18064 on Mar 16, 2024 13:49:38 GMT -5
I have NO idea what engine that is. A 37 Ford engine? This is where my car ignorance comes in to play. Clears - I have a couple of Mr Hobby bottles I haven't tried yet. GX100 and 112, I think? LOL!! Small block Chevy bro. Have you tried Testors Wet Look? For me.....it's the best out there. Just decant it and let it gas out to get all the air bubbles out and shoot a couple of mist coats all the way around the body, followed up with a good wet coat starting at the lower surfaces of the car body and working your way to the roof. Stuff is golden. MCW Bridgehamton Blue with a Wet Look clear on my Vette. If your base is lacquer, I use the GX112 over decals with no problem. Look at my 72 Charger build, I didn’t even sand or buff it, laid down like glass.
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Post by kyledehart5 on Mar 16, 2024 15:41:35 GMT -5
I also really like the GX112. It’s good stuff.
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 19:06:13 GMT -5
I'm in love with the GX113 flat, so I can't imagine this is any less awesome! Speaking of awesome, I can't believe how easy the Vallejo shifters are to spray. And how quickly they cover? Thirty drops of paint with three drops of thinner and three drops of retarder got me to here:
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Post by 70 STING on Mar 16, 2024 20:11:18 GMT -5
That looks pretty sweet. Not like some of those paints that show every colour in the spectrum. Being Vallejo, is it an acrylic?
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 20:37:19 GMT -5
It is indeed an acrylic - which is why I'm thinking I should clear coat before doing any decals.
The paint is weird. It's a creamy color in the bottle, with no semblance of blue or violet to be found. Then it comes out like this! The shift is quite evident when you change angles in person.
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Post by 70 STING on Mar 16, 2024 20:56:55 GMT -5
It is indeed an acrylic - which is why I'm thinking I should clear coat before doing any decals. The paint is weird. It's a creamy color in the bottle, with no semblance of blue or violet to be found. Then it comes out like this! The shift is quite evident when you change angles in person. Interesting. Something I’d like to try in the near future. Which type/brand of clear will you be using… given the Vallejo is acrylic?
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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 16, 2024 21:25:13 GMT -5
It is indeed an acrylic - which is why I'm thinking I should clear coat before doing any decals. The paint is weird. It's a creamy color in the bottle, with no semblance of blue or violet to be found. Then it comes out like this! The shift is quite evident when you change angles in person. Interesting. Something I’d like to try in the near future. Which type/brand of clear will you be using… given the Vallejo is acrylic? I was leaning that way myself now knowing that the Vallejo is acrylic. I'm guessing it's a water based thinner that you're using?
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 21:25:56 GMT -5
It is indeed an acrylic - which is why I'm thinking I should clear coat before doing any decals. The paint is weird. It's a creamy color in the bottle, with no semblance of blue or violet to be found. Then it comes out like this! The shift is quite evident when you change angles in person. Interesting. Something I’d like to try in the near future. Which type/brand of clear will you be using… given the Vallejo is acrylic? I should be safe putting GX112 over the top, no? My other options are GX100, the Tamiya LP clear, or a bottle of Testors. So, all lacquers, it looks like.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 16, 2024 21:32:18 GMT -5
Interesting. Something I’d like to try in the near future. Which type/brand of clear will you be using… given the Vallejo is acrylic? I should be safe putting GX112 over the top, no? My other options are GX100, the Tamiya LP clear, or a bottle of Testors. So, all lacquers, it looks like. This all depends on if the Vallejo acrylic is a water-based paint or more like Tamiya "acrylic".
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Post by 70 STING on Mar 16, 2024 21:34:17 GMT -5
Well, general rule is the hottest paint goes down first: lacquer then enamel then acrylic. Having said that, I know I’ve sprayed clear lacquer over ‘Tamiya’ acrylic that had cured for a few days. However, Tamiya’s acrylic is kind of a hybrid because it can be thinned with lacquer thinner.
Test on a spoon would be my advice - starting with a couple very light coats.
Edit: Joe kinda beat me to it.
If you’re looking for a very glossy acrylic clear, Tamiya X-22 is really nice but it takes a dog’s age to fully dry.
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Post by 70 STING on Mar 16, 2024 21:54:21 GMT -5
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Post by moparman18064 on Mar 16, 2024 22:01:10 GMT -5
Well, general rule is the hottest paint goes down first: lacquer then enamel then acrylic. Having said that, I know I’ve sprayed clear lacquer over ‘Tamiya’ acrylic that had cured for a few days. However, Tamiya’s acrylic is kind of a hybrid because it can be thinned with lacquer thinner. Test on a spoon would be my advice - starting with a couple very light coats. Edit: Joe kinda beat me to it. If you’re looking for a very glossy acrylic clear, Tamiya X-22 is really nice but it takes a dog’s age to fully dry. If you are going to try the lacquer over acrylic paint on a spoon test, if you have it, use Mr. Color leveling thinner. I know in my tests that I tried, the lacquer that I use from MCW seems to be much hotter than the leveling thinner. I have not tried on acrylic, but it still is too hot for enamel. If you do try it, let everyone know.
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 22:15:24 GMT -5
Alright, spoon test it is! I do have MLT to thin with, so no worries there. I'm trying to recall if I've ever put any of these clears over water-based (not Tamiya) acrylics before. I doubt it, since I almost always use Tamiya.
I've got a few days anyway - thought I had ordered some Gofer flame decals a while back, but I was wrong. All license plates and sponsor logos. Just placed an order with Scale Hobbyist only one state away - should be a quick turnaround. Ordered the Polar Lights/AMT set as well as the Gofer stuff. Will play around with clears and detail painting in the meantime!
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Post by dupes on Mar 16, 2024 22:18:12 GMT -5
Indeed! This color is...electric blue to violet? I better double check the name. The color code is written on the spoon in the pic.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 16, 2024 22:27:08 GMT -5
Alright, spoon test it is! I do have MLT to thin with, so no worries there. I'm trying to recall if I've ever put any of these clears over water-based (not Tamiya) acrylics before. I doubt it, since I almost always use Tamiya. I've got a few days anyway - thought I had ordered some Gofer flame decals a while back, but I was wrong. All license plates and sponsor logos. Just placed an order with Scale Hobbyist only one state away - should be a quick turnaround. Ordered the Polar Lights/AMT set as well as the Gofer stuff. Will play around with clears and detail painting in the meantime! Good on you. Better safe than sorry. I'm so-so when it comes to automotive paint and finish. You're getting some good pointers here in this thread from us but I will say this, Pete ( maverick) paints in the real world and knows a lot about the art of painting cars.
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Post by handiabled on Mar 17, 2024 3:05:10 GMT -5
The color is absolutely vibrant!
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Post by dupes on Mar 17, 2024 6:51:03 GMT -5
Alright, spoon test it is! I do have MLT to thin with, so no worries there. I'm trying to recall if I've ever put any of these clears over water-based (not Tamiya) acrylics before. I doubt it, since I almost always use Tamiya. I've got a few days anyway - thought I had ordered some Gofer flame decals a while back, but I was wrong. All license plates and sponsor logos. Just placed an order with Scale Hobbyist only one state away - should be a quick turnaround. Ordered the Polar Lights/AMT set as well as the Gofer stuff. Will play around with clears and detail painting in the meantime! Good on you. Better safe than sorry. I'm so-so when it comes to automotive paint and finish. You're getting some good pointers here in this thread from us but I will say this, Pete ( maverick) paints in the real world and knows a lot about the art of painting cars. So-so? Hahaha. I think you're a bit better than that! So what am I looking for, here? Obviously if everything melts off of the spoon, it won't work. How long should I wait to determine if this is a pass/fail? I don't know how long after spraying the clear coat could reactivate anything underneath it.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Mar 17, 2024 7:56:12 GMT -5
Good on you. Better safe than sorry. I'm so-so when it comes to automotive paint and finish. You're getting some good pointers here in this thread from us but I will say this, Pete ( maverick ) paints in the real world and knows a lot about the art of painting cars. So-so? Hahaha. I think you're a bit better than that! So what am I looking for, here? Obviously if everything melts off of the spoon, it won't work. How long should I wait to determine if this is a pass/fail? I don't know how long after spraying the clear coat could reactivate anything underneath it. You'll know pretty quick Marc. Just make sure your color coat is nice n' cured out prior to the gloss coat application. When it comes to a glass like finish I'm a fan of overkill. I always wait at least a couple days before I clear over any color coat. I'm just that way. Some go for it within hours of shooting color (lacquer color coats are very forgiving for that to happen) but I just can't bring myself to do it. Patience is key when striving for a showroom finish. Just don't rush it and you'll be rewarded.
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Post by atomicholiday on Mar 17, 2024 9:55:44 GMT -5
I’m just seeing this one now also. Welcome to the GB! You picked a great kit to get into cars with. This one goes together nicely. I built it around 10-12 years ago. Looking forward to seeing your progress. You got this!👍 It does seem to be fitting together so far (at least dry fit testing). What kind of scheme did you go with? Your color choice is absolutely gorgeous! Just perfect. Here's the one I built about 20+ years ago. It was from the same box-art kit that Kyle posted. Ignore the panel gaps. Those are not the fault of the kit, but rather operator error. I used some really thick paint (think Krylon or Rustoleum and you get the idea). I was also just learning to use primer and used a dark grey. Then I had to spray a lot of coats to get the color to look right and cover the dark grey. Thick paint = poor fit. I learned a lot on this one. Don't even get me started on the super-glue debacle...
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Post by kyledehart5 on Mar 17, 2024 11:45:13 GMT -5
I was going to chime in here but it looks like everyone has you pretty well covered after reading to the bottom. I don’t think the Mr color clear is super hot so you MAY be ok provided everything is cured well. Spoon tests are always a good idea. Alternatively there is also Aqua gloss from Alclad or future or Quickshine that would add some preliminary protection to your paint layer if your lacquer stuff turns out to be too hot. Loving that color you chose Marc. Very cool!!
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Post by kyledehart5 on Mar 17, 2024 11:45:36 GMT -5
It does seem to be fitting together so far (at least dry fit testing). What kind of scheme did you go with? Your color choice is absolutely gorgeous! Just perfect. Here's the one I built about 20+ years ago. It was from the same box-art kit that Kyle posted. Ignore the panel gaps. Those are not the fault of the kit, but rather operator error. I used some really thick paint (think Krylon or Rustoleum and you get the idea). I was also just learning to use primer and used a dark grey. Then I had to spray a lot of coats to get the color to look right and cover the dark grey. Thick paint = poor fit. I learned a lot on this one. Don't even get me started on the super-glue debacle... Oooh. I like that color. Nice work.
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Post by dupes on Mar 17, 2024 15:11:00 GMT -5
Ignore the panel gaps. Those are not the fault of the kit, but rather operator error. Oddly enough, when I was reading reviews of this kit prior to starting my build, those two side panel bits were mentioned quite frequently as not wanting to cooperate! I have a feeling it might not have been you. Will let you know how mine turn out. Nice build!
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Post by dupes on Mar 17, 2024 15:12:09 GMT -5
I was going to chime in here but it looks like everyone has you pretty well covered after reading to the bottom. I don’t think the Mr color clear is super hot so you MAY be ok provided everything is cured well. Spoon tests are always a good idea. Alternatively there is also Aqua gloss from Alclad or future or Quickshine that would add some preliminary protection to your paint layer if your lacquer stuff turns out to be too hot. Loving that color you chose Marc. Very cool!! I have Aquagloss, but I'm pretty on the fence about how it turns out. Obviously, super safe for any underlying paint, but not my first choice (it never seems to be glossy enough?).
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Post by dupes on Mar 17, 2024 15:14:05 GMT -5
Fired some 50/50 GX112/MLT on the extra floor board pieces (I'm going with the flat black corrugated option). Unless I'm missing something, and this all melts overnight, it appears good to go! Started with a mist coat, then applied a couple of heavier coats. Nice and glossy. You can see the demarcations on the bottom bit where I was holding with gloves.
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Post by kyledehart5 on Mar 17, 2024 15:53:10 GMT -5
Fired some 50/50 GX112/MLT on the extra floor board pieces (I'm going with the flat black corrugated option). Unless I'm missing something, and this all melts overnight, it appears good to go! Started with a mist coat, then applied a couple of heavier coats. Nice and glossy. You can see the demarcations on the bottom bit where I was holding with gloves. Looks good to me man. I’m not surprised. That gx stuff seems to be pretty easy going.
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