HASAGEWA YAMAHA ZK891

[adrian29341]

Sept 11, 2024 15:04:58 GMT -5 joelw said:

Adrian,
Thanks for taking the time to show me the crack. I thought in an earlier picture that was it, but it could have been the way that light was hitting it. I'm looking forward to following your repair every step of the way.

joel

You know it's funny Joel, I made the mistake of being naive enough to think that because this was a smaller scale
that less real estate would mean an easier build and a good shot at a very clean build - that has not been the case at
all ... in fact it's been the exact opposite - everything I have done the way I think it should be done has caused an 
issue it seems, and boy has this little rascal caused me many a sleepless night to this point. I am determined though
to soldier through this crack repair because I can see so clearly the final piece and how special a model it could be.

I have to say that I am learning the difference between Tamiya and Hasegawa - and it's huge - this kit's parts are 
very flimsy compared to Tamiya - the plastic they use is inferior and I believe this may be at the route of a lot of
the issues to date. I haven't lost hope that I can get this body back to the way I wanted it over the next few days
and get back on track - wish me luck my friend

[brandonk]

Paint is a funny thing and so is plastic. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest you don't put the cars in the dryer for more than 4-5 hours. That is more than enough time to cure any paints. I have had issues with paints that I cooked for long periods and I've found no issues with running them for just a few hours and they have always been cured no matter the paint type. Look at it like this; picture a black car sitting in the desert sun for 2 hours. No biggie right? Right. Now picture that same car sitting in the desert sun for 12+ hours and you can see that damage is far more likely the longer it sits in that heat. If the model gets warm enough long enough things are going to move and that will ruin your paint. SO, keep the dying sessions to 4-5 hours tops and you should find fewer issues. I think your plastic body got warm for a long enough period that it began to move and cracked your paint. Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth.

[adrian29341]

Sept 12, 2024 9:01:22 GMT -5 brandonk said:

Paint is a funny thing and so is plastic. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest you don't put the cars in the dryer for more than 4-5 hours. That is more than enough time to cure any paints. I have had issues with paints that I cooked for long periods and I've found no issues with running them for just a few hours and they have always been cured no matter the paint type. Look at it like this; picture a black car sitting in the desert sun for 2 hours. No biggie right? Right. Now picture that same car sitting in the desert sun for 12+ hours and you can see that damage is far more likely the longer it sits in that heat. If the model gets warm enough long enough things are going to move and that will ruin your paint. SO, keep the dying sessions to 4-5 hours tops and you should find fewer issues. I think your plastic body got warm for a long enough period that it began to move and cracked your paint. Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth.

You know what my friend - you literally read my mind this morning - I was thinking the exact same thing on the ride in to work
this morning - I could not have described it better myself - I was focusing on the drying and thinking that exact same thing - I 
put it in for too long and the weaker Hasegawa plastic got to warm for too long and started to move about which caused the crack.

paint and plastic are funny things - we think they are solid and permanent, when they are not - they are alive and organic and constantly 
changing even years after a build. I think you nailed it on the head and I am going to try reducing my baking times to 4 hours at like 105 
or 110 max and see what happens. I appreciate your advice

[adrian29341]

So this crack was in basically the worst spot possible on the body right at the bend, so after brain storming every
possible way to tackle it I decided that I would fill the crack, sand it down and tape off the area and airbrush the red 
on carefully and as lightly as possible until it matches. Then I'll remove the tape and blend sand as best I can - hit it
with a flat coat which should even things out - theoretically - and then I hope it's back to before the crack.

My fear to be honest is that in the final stages of buffing the clear coat the crack will reappear do to the pressure of
the rubbing compounds - so I by no means feel like it will be fixed until the model is completed and in place on it's base.

[joelw]

Sept 12, 2024 8:52:08 GMT -5 adrian29341 said:

Sept 11, 2024 16:50:21 GMT -5 robbo said:

It's a shame this one keeps tripping you up because you are doing a great job making it look good, I love that engine

Thank you my friend, it does keep throwing something new at me each day that I hadn't anticipated, but I
am determined to soldier on

Adrian,
  That's what friends are for.   And back in the days on the other forum we hit it right off. So glad that I can call you a true friend.
  Excellent start to your surgical touch to correct that crack. 

joel

[adrian29341]

Thank you sir

[kyledehart5]

Best of luck on the repair work. We are cheering for you!!

[handiabled]

Tough spot for certain but my moneys on you to tackle it.

[adrian29341]

Thanks Kyle!

[chrissmith]

Sorry to see you going through a tough time on this fine build.
Hopefully you’ll get her through this.

I was wondering why you use that particular temperature to dry your paint for x amount of hours. I understand it has worked out in the past, I just think if it was set at per say 100deg instead of 113 it would not be so harsh

[adrian29341]

Sept 13, 2024 22:25:03 GMT -5 chrissmith said:

Sorry to see you going through a tough time on this fine build.
Hopefully you’ll get her through this.

I was wondering why you use that particular temperature to dry your paint for x amount of hours. I understand it has worked out in the past, I just think if it was set at per say 100deg instead of 113 it would not be so harsh

Thanks for dropping by Chris

I have stepped away from the bench for awhile mid build on this guy in order to reset.

When I return to it I will definitely be using lower temps.

[project510]

You got this Adrian!

My fingers are crossed for a good outcome!

[406 Silverado]

Sept 18, 2024 8:33:41 GMT -5 adrian29341 said:

Sept 13, 2024 22:25:03 GMT -5 chrissmith said:

Sorry to see you going through a tough time on this fine build.
Hopefully you’ll get her through this.

I was wondering why you use that particular temperature to dry your paint for x amount of hours. I understand it has worked out in the past, I just think if it was set at per say 100deg instead of 113 it would not be so harsh

Thanks for dropping by Chris

I have stepped away from the bench for awhile mid build on this guy in order to reset.

When I return to it I will definitely be using lower temps.

I'm looking forward to seeing you in action on this one once more Adrian. With your skillset, I have a feeling that you're going to more than do this one justice. You've been missed brother.

[joelw]

Same here my friend. Looking forward to seeing you back here once again.

joel

[bronco67]

Love the detail on this, it looks amazing. i don't know where to begin, engine detail? leather seat? body finish? paint? tyres/rims? did i mention the leather seat and seatbelts? amazing! BTW i think my wife has given up, now she just shakes her head.

[joelw]

Adrian,
Hope that all is well, and that you'll be making a appearance on the site much sooner then later.

joel