Ray Dunakin
Full Member
Member since: February 2013
Posts: 409
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
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Post by Ray Dunakin on Dec 4, 2014 20:24:26 GMT -5
Looking good!
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Post by wing_nut on Dec 5, 2014 8:30:13 GMT -5
Outstanding work all around But what's that box like structure on the back there? And why are there names we use in modeling on the front? Are the words just remainders of what you need to go rummaging through the pile of crap on the bench to find?
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 5, 2014 17:01:02 GMT -5
Where to start.....................
So the question aboooot the Tow shackle. Now the observation is valid that the shackle seems small or the cable eye is too small..... Well you caught me. I am far from perfect, and when creating a model completely from scratch, there are bound to be flaws..... HELL the whole &%*#$#&#%&*#*()# thing has flaws, It was still fun to create.
On to bigger and better here are some more shots
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 5, 2014 17:27:52 GMT -5
So before the "mocking birds" come out to play............Yes I know the Hauptman's field glasses are drooping....Here is the 411 on that. With all my figures, the weapon or "item" in the hand is pinned in. by this I mean a fine wire rod runs through, in this case the glasses and up his arm through the hand. And with Heer Hauptman, the droop was non correctable...... Sorry
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Post by deafpanzer on Dec 6, 2014 11:52:50 GMT -5
LOVELY camo job!!!
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legend
Full Member
Member since: November 2011
Posts: 577
Nov 30, 2011 13:49:32 GMT -5
Nov 30, 2011 13:49:32 GMT -5
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Post by legend on Jan 18, 2015 10:59:05 GMT -5
Just found this!!!! What a great job, thanks for sharing.
bill
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jan 27, 2015 16:25:45 GMT -5
Sorry I posted in the wrong spot
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Ray Dunakin
Full Member
Member since: February 2013
Posts: 409
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
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Post by Ray Dunakin on Jan 27, 2015 22:49:58 GMT -5
Nice job on that figure!
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Post by panzerjager2 on Mar 12, 2015 14:23:05 GMT -5
o, after MUCH angst I had to trash both working prototype track links. Turns out they were WAY off.........
pictures of the new ones are coming
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Post by panzerjager2 on Mar 18, 2015 15:26:29 GMT -5
Here are a couple of shots of the NEW dang track links....................... only 3/4's complete
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Post by deafpanzer on Mar 18, 2015 17:52:06 GMT -5
Looking real good... you are getting closer to the finish line as it has been a long but fun build!
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 6, 2015 13:00:48 GMT -5
Well guys,
After MUCH consternation and angst...... Here are the new Ferdinand Track links. These have been designed to be cast as "working tracks". One link is fully complete, with needing just some "green stuff" sanded off. The other is nearing completion.
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Post by Tojo72 on Jun 6, 2015 16:52:21 GMT -5
This build is already awesome,I can't believe you are scratching all the indie links.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 6, 2015 21:45:33 GMT -5
Tojo,
Thanks. I knew going in I'd have to scratch the tracks. I just didn't think it would take three variants to get it right. Talk about a fools paradise..................or is that paradox LOL
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John Everett
Full Member
Member since: January 2012
July, 2016 MoM Winner
Posts: 1,278
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by John Everett on Jun 6, 2015 22:15:03 GMT -5
Will you build each link or cast them en masse?
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 6, 2015 23:08:04 GMT -5
I'm gonna cast them. First individual links, then if I haven't lost what's left of my sanity.... I'll cast several link sections, kind of like the old Tamiya Sdkfz 250 tracks
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 7, 2015 20:00:14 GMT -5
So here is more detail on the new tracks..........
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Post by Leon on Jun 7, 2015 21:02:38 GMT -5
Nice work on the detail PJ! I don't envy you on casting all those links.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 7, 2015 23:06:20 GMT -5
Leon, It won't be that bad.................. Funny that's the same thing I said the day before I enlisted... LOL
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 8, 2015 16:29:24 GMT -5
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vlpbruce
Full Member
Member since: March 2013
Posts: 1,463
Mar 24, 2013 11:37:05 GMT -5
Mar 24, 2013 11:37:05 GMT -5
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Post by vlpbruce on Jun 8, 2015 18:13:21 GMT -5
Looking great PJ. I'm glad to see this one starting to come together.
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Post by deafpanzer on Jun 9, 2015 10:53:57 GMT -5
Fantastic work on the wheels!
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 10, 2015 19:34:20 GMT -5
OKEE DoeKEE,
Here comes my first castings for this project........... Man I should have paid attention in the "casting 101" class
Now I must wait till morning when the molds set
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 11, 2015 21:33:19 GMT -5
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John Everett
Full Member
Member since: January 2012
July, 2016 MoM Winner
Posts: 1,278
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by John Everett on Jun 11, 2015 22:31:58 GMT -5
Are you pressure casting? For as many cast resin parts as you're going to need in building this, you may want to look into investing in a basic pressure pot. I built mine from a paint pot sold at Harbor Freight tools for $99. Add in their famous 20% off coupon and you can get away pretty cheap.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 11, 2015 22:38:28 GMT -5
John,
Thanks for the advice.......... I haven't ever done pressure casting SO ANY input would be very welcomed
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 11, 2015 23:31:52 GMT -5
So here is the Tactical numbering on the Ferdinand......... As far as I could tell through years of research, since this company commander has the red and white Greber marking, the tactical numbers are then to be red and white as well...............
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John Everett
Full Member
Member since: January 2012
July, 2016 MoM Winner
Posts: 1,278
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by John Everett on Jun 11, 2015 23:35:30 GMT -5
Pressure casting is a way to minimize or eliminate the tiny air bubbles which appear in most finished castings. You need to to treat both the rubber moulds as well as the liquid resin as it cures in the rubber mold. There's about a zillion Youtube videos on the process. Essentially, you cover your masters in liquid rubber and place it in a pressure vessel at around 40psi. Some guys recommend 80 psi, but that's beyond the capabilities of my Harbor Freight setup. Let the liquid rubber cure while under pressure. This will crush all the tiny air bubbles so that the mould will be solid, solid rubber. Any air voids will cause problems during pressure casting.
Once the moulds are cured, use the same process to crush the tiny air bubbles in the liquid resin. Place the mould with its load of freshly mixed resin into the pressure vessel and allow the resin to harden while under 40-80psi. You will get much more solidly constructed parts with few if any voids.
There are variations. You can subject the liquid rubber to a vacuum and achieve a similar result by sucking all the air out instead of crushing the air down. But vacuum setups can be expensive.
Look into "pressure paint pots". These are just a big steel can meant to be pressurized to about 50psi for use in the house painting industry. You can easily convert one of these pots into a sealed vessel suitable for pressure casting. Again, YouTube has videos. Any regular air compressor capable of 100psi will do the job.
Just be careful not to blow yourself up. I want to see the Ferdinand finished!
John
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Post by panzerjager2 on Jun 14, 2015 15:34:20 GMT -5
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Post by Leon on Jun 14, 2015 17:38:51 GMT -5
Torsion bars and your track teasers look good PJ!
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