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Post by Leon on Oct 28, 2013 15:39:11 GMT -5
Making awesome progress Lucas.Looking really good.Keep up the great work.
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 28, 2013 16:32:03 GMT -5
Yep, I will. Just had a look at the MK35 1/48 figures when I arrived. WOW! Theyre freaking awesome. A bit expensive (6€ each!), but worth all the money! Very cool.
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 28, 2013 16:33:03 GMT -5
Out of interest: is there a 1/32 scale Ju52 at all? But youre right - even in 1/48 thats a massive plane! But my grandpa is me worth that Not aware of one being done in large scale Lucas, it would be pretty massive as you say! Nice progress and save on the windows. Yeah, even in 1/48 that bird has ca. 60 cm wingspan!
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Post by deafpanzer on Oct 28, 2013 18:41:41 GMT -5
Nice work on the figures! Always wanted to create a tree using a plant root. Thanks for the tip!
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 29, 2013 5:10:33 GMT -5
No worries, mate.
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 29, 2013 14:20:53 GMT -5
Wow. Now that was a real great day...
The holy halls of PMC Leipzig (PMC = Plastik-Modellbauclub = Plastic Modelers Club) are stones throw away and so I decided to see some of the fellow modelers again. I know its "chieftain" of the PMC now for some years - hes the one who sold me the Ju52 by the way for only 15€ (ebay says ca. 30€ or more!)and he was of course curious about how the dio and the plane went so far.
I even got two quite rare Preiser figures for the diorama. Including a tip for the coffee I paid 3 € for two very good 1/48 figures and had the oppurtunity to do some basic modeling in the "holy halls". That means the club members have a shared room that is as well as a storage and bench at the same time.
Very cool projects are going on there atm - the "chieftain" is doing a 1/48 Focke Wulf Fw 189, theres a "Bunny Fighter" Rafale, some very interesting figure projects from my mentor Lothar Siebert - honorary member of PMC - and so on...
Yeah, that was really a great afternoon!
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Post by bullardino on Oct 30, 2013 6:48:04 GMT -5
Nice to hear you had a good time The progress look great
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 30, 2013 7:06:10 GMT -5
One more thing on the Preiser figures - theres a model train shop here, too. Preiser unpainted figures arent deliverable for 2 years now. And I got two of them since yesterday?! Even better
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 12:54:36 GMT -5
Installation of the Body went a bit more tricky than I thought. The front needed loads of pressure, but not too much. After several tries it finally worked fine, with a little gap on the Dashboard.
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
Posts: 0
Nov 27, 2024 22:42:11 GMT -5
Nov 27, 2024 22:42:11 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2013 13:06:43 GMT -5
Way to go!
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Post by deafpanzer on Oct 31, 2013 13:24:06 GMT -5
I don't think its a gap... it was to hold whiskey flasks I think. Looking good buddy!
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 13:28:20 GMT -5
AH!!! Have a civy figure here, "Man drinking his bottle" from MK35 - now I know who caused it
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 13:44:16 GMT -5
Today on the To-Do-List: Both figures on the left come from MK35, the right ones are the Preiser figures I mentioned above - the Radio is another gimick btw
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 16:03:23 GMT -5
Painting figures - at least in this scale - isnt that difficult, really. Sometimes very gifted modellers that build the most freaky models ask me "How did you do that?!". For this reason heres a little tutorial. Thats supposed to be not an "LikeThatAndNothingElse!"-thing, but maybe a little starting help, so to say. For those modelers that hesitate to try it its maybe a help. Lets start with the MK-35-guys: [1] Of course every figure needs a bit of sanding and trimming. Theres loads of things you can use here: fine sanding paper, sanding sticks and sponges etc. As well as the Preiser figures and the MK-35-figures feature seperate heads. That allows even more individualism here. If they dont feature a separate head, a sharp blade will help, too [2] Some modelers swear on Mr. Surfacer, Tamiya primer and similar - my choice here was a car primer from a nearby building center called "Kwasny". Imho car primers have a better recipe and are cheaper. As always - many roads lead to Rome. [3] + [4] "Where to start?!" I hear you say. Correct answer is: With those pieces that are most in the background. In most cases, thats the face. Theres tons of ready-to-use skin tones, and even sets. Those are thought for advanced figure painters and mainly for the larger scales, means 1/35 or larger. Lets keep it simple! My experience is, that many "skin tones" tend to be more a piggy skin tone than a human one. The best thing is to make an own mixture of a medium brown and white - Here, it was Vallejo 037 Mud Brown and GW Ceramite White. If you plan to paint loads of figures or if you want to paint other areas like feet, arms etc. later, its a good idea to make some notes of the mixtures you did. Pros use to write down EVERY mixture they made to look it up if necessary once more. Here, its important to make thin layers, otherwise all the details will disappear - and those figures got loads of them! Of course youll be a bit disappointed, if that happens, will you?! And... you may have to decide if you want to use washings - for beginners the easiest way - or if you want to use layers, means you point the details out with lighter shades of the base color. My experience is if you combine them, thats the best solution. Ill come back on this later. Heres an example where I combined as well as washings and lighter layers of the base color, maybe youve seen this gentleman before [5] + [6] Games Workshop "Agrax Earthshade", a dark brown washing was used for the first shadows... [7] [7.1] The eyes ...are most important and always a bit difficult to paint. If you dont want to paint them, thats no problem, its not a "must have". But if you decide to do so, please avoid white eyes and take a light grey instead - that looks more natural. Take the smallest brush you can get and make sure that the color has a milky consistence. [7.2] Highlights for the face Its best to take your base color and mix a little white in it. Paint the cheeks, the forehead and the nose very carefully (again thin layers here, please!). That should be enough. If you wish to do so, you can repeat this with an even lighter color. [7.3.] Details Lips and moustache are nice little details that need a different color of course. This gentleman is a bit older, so I gave him a light grey touch, the same color like I used for the eyes, btw. The lips got mud brown plus a bit of hull red. Once you got used to paint such little details, you may want to add a gloss coat for the lips and eyes. That needs a bit of practice of course. If you hesitate -no problem at all. Regards Lucas. [to be continued...]
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Post by deafpanzer on Oct 31, 2013 19:21:41 GMT -5
Really like the chubby one... he reminds me somewhat of me... maybe in few years.
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Post by wbill76 on Oct 31, 2013 19:30:15 GMT -5
Nice SBS! Slap a Kiltutu on that guy and it's Gary!
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 21:11:43 GMT -5
Ehm... Bill, sorry, I didnt understand.
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Post by tigrazor on Oct 31, 2013 22:55:06 GMT -5
[8] + [9] Clothes and their washings I variied the colors gven in the instructions a bit. Best thing is to paint the highlights as long as the washing is wet. Again, the consistence is most important. Not too thin, then the color will run into the deeper spots, and not too thick. Details like the chain and the buttons (Testors Aluminium) come last. Oh, and I forgot to mention that the Pullover was painted in Tamiya Dark Sea Grey
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Post by tigrazor on Nov 1, 2013 7:41:39 GMT -5
[10] Final steps The arms need a skin tone too, of course. Just repeat steps 3-6. Pipes come in different colors, Ive chosen Hull Red again here. To give the shoes a rugged and dirty look, just dilute some light Brown pigments in alcohol or lighter fluid and paint the black shoes over. Excess can simply be wiped away with a soft cloth or similar. That should be enough. The younger guy is slightly impatient - time to place those guys on the base! There you go! Well, wasnt that difficult, was it?! Oh yes, there are some other additional details on the base as well. A bottle (Thanks Jörg for the MiniArt spare parts!) and a radio from Preiser for the "breakfast guys": Another picture to show you how LAAAAAAAARGE this plane really is: Regards, Lucas.
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Post by bullardino on Nov 1, 2013 17:08:18 GMT -5
Nice progress, Lucas
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
Posts: 0
Nov 27, 2024 22:42:11 GMT -5
Nov 27, 2024 22:42:11 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2013 21:29:20 GMT -5
Looking great Lucas!
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Post by tigrazor on Nov 2, 2013 11:09:08 GMT -5
Thank you Another story about Ju 52 crashes here: Im living in Saxony, to be more correct at the Ore Mountains area (southern Saxony), close to the Czech border. Just saw a documentation today about the counterfeits of Hitlers diaries some years ago. That was a massive slap in the face for the German news landscape! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitler_DiariesWell - it was believed that they were aboard a Junkers Ju 352 that crashed in Boernersdorf. This little village is just 50 km away from my hometown and ca. 60 from my actual home (sic!). One man, a military scientist from Doebeln, ca. 30 km North of my home, did research on this for more than 10 years now. I wrote him some lines, because Im pretty sure that hes stuck in the materia of crash sites and WW2 history far more than I am. Most probably Ill visit him and his museum he got soon. You can never learn enough!
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thug626
Senior Member
Member since: January 2013
Posts: 2,035
Jan 15, 2013 13:05:28 GMT -5
Jan 15, 2013 13:05:28 GMT -5
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Post by thug626 on Nov 2, 2013 12:20:11 GMT -5
Good morning Lucas, I am still follow this build and, I must say, you have been doing some wonderful work here. Dave
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Post by tigrazor on Nov 2, 2013 12:42:09 GMT -5
Thank you Dave. Good morning you say? How late is it in Eugene atm?
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Post by wbill76 on Nov 2, 2013 14:44:54 GMT -5
Ehm... Bill, sorry, I didnt understand. Inside joke Lucas, goes back a long way...no worries!
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