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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 24, 2015 9:21:43 GMT -5
Thanks bro... glad you liked it! I was fortunate I had the best seat in the house at Mig's workshop 3 years ago at AMPS Nationals in Auburn. Watching him work helped me understand and I have one of his FAQ books... great stuff! See guy in blue shirt behind Mig? That's my sign language interpreter! LOL  I checked his website and I don't see video clips how to use his products. I am trying to remember where I saw those helpful clips... |
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Post by JimD on Feb 24, 2015 9:28:41 GMT -5
Wow...you got a great seat. I'm guessing there's a black Friday-esque rush to gather around that demo  I hope you didn't leave a trail of bodies in your wake to get up there  I've found a few vids for stuff actually...which have helped get my mind around it. The thing that puzzles me is that these are all basically wash consistency enamels, and some of the effects don't look anything like they were applied with a liquid...which I'm guessing is down to application techniques...which is what I'm concerned with. The new AK catalog actually has little "how to's" for their products too. |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 24, 2015 9:31:25 GMT -5
Be warned some of the AK stuff are too strong... I thin them first with white spirit especially AK Dust. I did the same with the AK Grime products. I did about 4 or 5 layers... it is all about layering and it took me most of the night to do the dock. I allow it dry long enough before I apply another layer. Hope this helps...
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Post by JimD on Feb 24, 2015 9:42:29 GMT -5
Good to know. I did notice in some vids the stuff was being thinned for use.
If you don't mind another question....I notice some techniques use a plaster to create buildup. I know they make their own, but isn't there a model railroad product, or something else out there that people use for the plaster...I had seen mention of it in the past, but don't remember exactly. Just wondering if you, or anyone else, uses it or knows what it is. I have a bit of the AK stuff but it's not going to go far.
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 24, 2015 10:55:32 GMT -5
I haven't really tried the plaster technique yet but I plan to next time when I do a muddy diorama. Mr T TRM did a great job so we should ask him how! LOL I agree I don't think any of AK stuff is thick enough to make realistic mud unless you add something to it. Vallejo recently released mud/sand products. I used the desert sand product on the base for my 232 and it worked just great. I am sure you can thin it enough so you can add it to the vehicle. You can see the jug in the background...  Am still learning about many techniques myself... |
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Post by JimD on Feb 24, 2015 11:05:27 GMT -5
Wasn't sure if you'd been down that road yet. I'm betting someone here has and will poke their head in. I actually have AK's Heavy Mud set. I bought it a couple of years ago and never built up the nerve to use it, but I'm hoping to try it out soon. It's got a little pack of the plaster in it to mix with the enamel mud product. It's not a lot though. When I bought the set I found a how to on using it that mentioned something you could use in lieu of the supplied stuff. T!!!!!!! MR. T!?!?! Come drop some knowledge please |
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 24, 2015 14:25:31 GMT -5
Nice sliming effects Andy, we're going to have to call you a Ghostbuster now! Thinning and layering is always the key when it comes to working with anything that's enamel based. The 'layers' will cure just like paint if allowed to sit a while and allow for some (careful) build-up efforts as a result, but it does take some practice and effort to get the desired result for sure. Stellar effort buddy! |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 24, 2015 16:17:59 GMT -5
Jimmy- Looks like Mr T is busy dealing with the wind chill... poor him! LOL I haven't tried any of their AK heavy mud set. I am not sure if I am thinking of the same one... a friend had one and it looked great. It comes in a container that looks like tobacco chewing container.
Bill- LOL! Loved that movie... I want to see it again!!! Exactly... sometimes it is best to allow it dry overnight before I make streaks out of them. Glad you liked it too! Thanks my friend!
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Post by JimD on Feb 24, 2015 16:56:12 GMT -5
Andy, I've been PMing him today..I'll send him this way when I reply in a minute. Frankly, I'm worried about him...I think the cold has gone to his brain. We got to talking about RC airplanes and how I quit it because of the unfriendly nature of the guys at local flying fields....now he's suggesting armed RC airplanes, personal RC surface to air missiles, sniper rifles...honestly I'm a little scared |
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Post by TRM on Feb 24, 2015 17:46:40 GMT -5
And scared you probably should be...LOL!! C'mon!! Put your modelling talents to good use guys!! WMD, Scale modelling style!!  Okay...caught up to what I was apparently added to but missed. Mud... First..the plaster is just that...plaster, plaster of Paris, heck, I use USG brand joint compound (used to be called Durabond). They make 3 flavors..."flavours for you UK boys! 90 min., 45 min., and 20 min drying times. Typically I use the 45 min but that is mainly because I have a 10lb bag of it (runs between $10 and $15 bucks) and it will last pretty much me forever! The sets, whether they are AK, AMMO, Arm & Hammer, Green Eggs and Ham...wait...never mind!!  In any case, plaster is one medium that is used to create the dirt and mud effects. The kits, I feel, are more or less designed to allow the user to apply these effects to the model. There is not necessarily enough in the kit to do a full blown diorama....that is where the outsourcing of other types of plaster come into play. Long story short on the plaster..  (you know better than that) By mixing the plaster with any of the effects into a slurry, you can use a stiff bristled brush and flick lightly the mix onto the model to create a spattered and directional dirt and mud splatter. An Airbrush can be used as well by introducing light blasts. This type of weathering is not limited to the enamel world only. Oils paint can be thinned down, Acrylic paints and washes and even lacquers if you were crazy enough to give it a shot (not recommended btw). By using different brands and color you can greatly improve your pallet size from 3 or 4 colors to 1000's if you want. Dried, clumped mud can be made a few different ways. First and one of the easier ways is to apply putty or plaster in the desired shape you want to the model and allow to dry. You can base coat the color you want with paint...lets say a light colored earth tone. you can use the washed to darken areas and build up tones to get a more realistic coloring. Sometimes, before the washes you applied actually dry, you can add pigments to the dampened areas. The pigments will soak up the wash and stick. You would probably want to ad a Binder to make them stick and not come off. The Binder is designed to allow the dry pigment look to still be there after it dries. If a wet look is what you are looking for add some gloss coat to any one of the step actually. If you add the gloss mixed with pigments and a medium...water for arguments sake, the pigments will dry darker and have a shine as if they we wet. Also you can use items such as "Wet effects" which is essentially a wash with a a clear gloss additive. It will darken and give the wet look...much like Andy on a Friday night!! Just checking to see if you were still paying attention!! Bill is 100% correct above...LAYERS! It is always better to follow the age old saying of "less is more". You can always add more if you want...and in weathering you probably should. Build up the layers slowly over several applications. This increases the depth of what you are working on. In the end, play around with different application and see what works best for you. |
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Post by JimD on Feb 24, 2015 19:16:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the detailed response, psycho. So, I'm assuming you're talking about the powdered joint compound and not the paste in the tub... Your response was very helpful, so thanks. Awesomesauce...not I can go back to not hijacking these guy's thread. |
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Post by wing_nut on Feb 24, 2015 19:53:38 GMT -5
WOOHOO... pond scum!
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 25, 2015 0:30:47 GMT -5
Jimmy- AHHH! I am glad Mr T is alive and kicking! LOL No worries about hijacking my thread I really enjoyed this and I needed this because I still haven't done this. Mr T- That was very helpful... I figured you could help us newbies! LOL Layers? Don't kill me... I added another layer to my Seehund tonight. LOL Marc- LOL! Pond scum... love the sound of it despite my deafness! Thanks partner! Guys- Sorry I lied... I thought Seehund was done last night but I forgot to add another layer of stuff. Used AK Salt Streak product to add subtle white streaks... I like it now as it brings more contrast in colors.   Four more nights to finish this...
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kiwibelg
Full Member
Member since: December 2014
Posts: 613 
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Post by kiwibelg on Feb 25, 2015 1:28:48 GMT -5
Looking fantastic Andy, I really like the weathering you have done on this one mate! Best of luck with the next four nights to knock this one out of the park!!
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kiwibelg
Full Member
Member since: December 2014
Posts: 613
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Post by kiwibelg on Feb 25, 2015 1:32:25 GMT -5
Btw....you better submit this one in MOM for March!
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Post by wing_nut on Feb 25, 2015 7:11:34 GMT -5
Salt streaking ay? Guess mine's not done after all. Looks like I'll be off the the hobby shop today. Damn, I hate when that happens  |
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Post by JimD on Feb 25, 2015 9:12:13 GMT -5
It just keeps getting better and better. Looks like you're not far off from finishing this one up.
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 25, 2015 9:23:41 GMT -5
Kiwi- LOL! Thanks my friend... thinking about entering it into MoM since I haven't entered for a while. Marc- HAHAHA! You made me laugh out... I wouldn't have known about this stuff if Rob 406 Silverado didn't tell me about it at ArmorCon. Thank you Rob! Those AK Navy stuff is pretty cool... can't wait to use them again on my upcoming 1/350 floaty build. Have fun at the shop! Jimmy- Thanks bro... not much left I hope. Couple of accessories for the dock. Build those wood bases for the Seehund I have been putting it off for too long! Maybe add couple of French beach babes working on their tan?  Relax! Slow down! Don't go crazy over my beach babes... they are married to me!!!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 25, 2015 13:33:24 GMT -5
Coming right along Andy! I know it's the lighting and angle that's producing it, but the different streak contrasts almost make it look like the mid-section around the conning tower has a barcode label (faded!). |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 25, 2015 13:37:33 GMT -5
LOL! Bet you know how to read those bar codes without a scanner! Thanks professor!
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Post by JimD on Feb 25, 2015 13:40:55 GMT -5
Beach babes make everything better!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 25, 2015 13:41:00 GMT -5
LOL! Bet you know how to read those bar codes without a scanner! Thanks professor! Yep, says it's been discounted by 15%! |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 25, 2015 14:25:36 GMT -5
LOL! Thank you both my friends! Bill, you missed second bar code... it says it belongs to Andy Leffler! LOL
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Post by Leon on Feb 25, 2015 16:38:55 GMT -5
Nothing like a good streaking to compliment your paint work Andy! Full speed ahead buddy. |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 25, 2015 17:08:24 GMT -5
Hey buddy! Thank you very much!
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Post by TRM on Feb 26, 2015 0:16:44 GMT -5
Love the looks of the streaking ...the boat silly, not you in your usual fashion!! Nice work there Andy!! Really looking awesome!! Now post some of the pretty girls you were hanging around with tonight at the game!! |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 28, 2015 23:22:30 GMT -5
Love the looks of the streaking ...the boat silly, not you in your usual fashion!! Nice work there Andy!! Really looking awesome!! Now post some of the pretty girls you were hanging around with tonight at the game!! Missed you there... sorry for being slow! Now I am happy to report that my Seehund is DONE! Going to post pictures in few minutes... LOL |
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 28, 2015 23:33:00 GMT -5
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Post by dupes on Feb 28, 2015 23:38:24 GMT -5
Really like what you did with the water - tell me what you did when you get a chance? Looks great buddy!
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Post by TRM on Feb 28, 2015 23:44:08 GMT -5
Fantastic job Andy!! The scene...the boat...the little dude!! Just a solid bit of modelling my friend!
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I hope you didn't leave a trail of bodies in your wake to get up there 
In any case, plaster is one medium that is used to create the dirt and mud effects. The kits, I feel, are more or less designed to allow the user to apply these effects to the model. There is not necessarily enough in the kit to do a full blown diorama....that is where the outsourcing of other types of plaster come into play.
(you know better than that) By mixing the plaster with any of the effects into a slurry, you can use a stiff bristled brush and flick lightly the mix onto the model to create a spattered and directional dirt and mud splatter. An Airbrush can be used as well by introducing light blasts. 
